InkbirdITC-1000F 2 Stage Temperature Controller Cooling and Heating Modes Celsius and Fahrenheit

First of all, THE CONTACTS (heat / cool mode) DO IT AUTOMATICALLY. I could not get the thing to go to heat. Appearently, if you set the temp to whatever, the device will activate (close) the appropiate relay automatically. (There is no "Normally Closed" connection...they are both open until they close)ON Button (Top Left) - Press and hold (this turns the unit ON/OFF)...Also your SAVE button to hold the Memory.S (Set)UP /Down (Arrows)SETTING THIS THANG!: Press and HOLD SET (3 seconds) /Then UP Arrow...(This arrow will scroll through the various parameters you can customize)When on the parameter you want to set:PRESS S (The Parameterwill FLASH)Now Use the UP/DOWN to set your temp.POWER Button now locks this in."S" BUTTON Will take you back to where you chose the various parameters again.tS = TEMPATURESETdS = DIFFERENTIAL ("Anticipation" or: the amount of flucuation from "on" you wish)Pt = PROTECTION (Compressor etc ON DELAY Time)CA= CALIBRATIONCF = CELCIUS OR FAHRENHEIT (choice)As said I could not directly choose or force this thing into "HEAT" mode. When I EXCEEDED / DECEEDED THE ACTUAL ROOM (sensor) TEMP...It automatically closed the appropiate HEAT / COOL relay. (You will see the said indicator light up)................................................... SHEEZE!

Great for old commercial cooler. Brought new life into a old TRUE commercial cooler in a grocery store. I had to modify the unit by removing the cooling10 amp relay and hooking up the 12 volt coil voltage to the terminal block so I could use a 40 amp Solid State Relay(SSR). The cooler pulls 11 amps after startup which would have destroyed the onboard relay. Also I put the probe in a small bottle or GLYCERIN to help buffer the temperature when open/close the door. This helps slow the fast response of this unit way down. I set the program to 5 minute compressor delay too as well as the temperature difference to 2 degrees. Keeps the cooler spot on between 37-39 degrees. Turned a 20 year cooler into a usable fridge. Best $30 you can spend on this and a SSR. Mounted the SSR in the bottom channel where the ballast used to be and did a ballast bypass for the lamps. No heat sink needed for the SSR as it barley gets warm and the compressor fan is keeping it cool.

I'm using the temperature control unit for a Quail Egg Incubator. So far, it's working perfectly. Set to turn on at 99° and off at 100°. The accuracy of the thermostat is dead on, it has been verified with three others. The wiring instructions are good, easy to follow. I had this wired within ten minutes. Overall, I'm happy with this purchase, I would buy it again.

Works great, good enough for what I needed.I use the controller to regulate a heating element in a dough proofing box.It is very accurate, however, the swing temperature (how low will it drop before it turns the heat on again) is set to 3 degrees F and can't be changed.If you turn off the controller (long press on teh on-off button) and there's a power failure, or any other interruption of power to the controller, the controller will turn on by itself when the power returns, even if it was off before the power failure.

Careful on this particular listing: It says 220Volt in the specifications, it is not. THIS ITC-1000F is 110Volt.We have installed several hundred of these, no complaints about them, in most installations, they are fantastic!Remember: The relays/ outputs are just a switch, they do not directly power anything, they simply control a load. The voltage can be from millivolts to 240 volts on the CONTACTS. The voltage of the control is irrelevant. (12/24/110)