GUU7 Thermal Expansion Tank for Hot Water Heater Carbon Steel Almond Color Holds 2.1 Gal, 2.1 Gallons

Flextrol FTT5 Thermal Expansion Tank 2.1 gallonThe label on this tank says it’s pre-charged at 40 psi, but mine was 50 psi, which demonstrated that the air diaphragm didn’t leak. That is, this product is made in Italy (where it’s pre-charged), shipped across the Atlantic by boat to a warehouse awaiting a customer order, then shipped again. That’s at least 3 weeks and probably months. If it leaked, it wouldn’t have read 50 psi when I got it.Tank diameter not at the bulge is precisely 7-7/8". Diameter at the bulge is 8-1/16". Device height tip-to-tip uninstalled is 12 ½". The bottom has a plastic screw-on cap to protect the valve stem (same as on a tire), used to set diaphragm air pressure. Construction appears perfect.Installed on the cold-water pipe just prior to our hot water heater, these tanks serve two functions: a hot water heater expansion tank and a whole-house water hammer arrester. For the latter function, it eliminated pipe banging in our house. (We had a 3/4" Watts Water Hammer Arrester there, but it was only minimally effective.) A larger expansion tank is typically recommended for 80 gallon hot-water heaters, but this one works fine on ours.Although mine arrived with no damage or shipping box tear-through, the packaging obviously needs improvement. There SHOULD be protection over the 3/4" stainless threaded fitting to spread the force over a larger area than just the pipe nipple. Other expansion tanks are packaged with a plastic threaded protector for the pipe where the far end is quite large (e.g., 3" in diameter) to protect the box and the threaded end. That’s a much better packaging approach.Quality of this Flextrol is excellent....Non-review comments:Research was required since no instructions were provided. Here’s what I found:1. Measure the water pressure of your plumbing system with a water pressure gauge; e.g. one having a female garden hose connection such as the Winters Dual Scale Maximum Pointer Water Pressure Gauge, available from Amazon. Connect it to a hose or to any faucet with hose bib threading; e.g., a laundry tub perhaps, and turn the water on. Note the PSI reading. But first, let the water run a while to normalize plumbing system pressure if the water heater was on, since otherwise there could be a false high pressure reading.Note: our normal home plumbing pressure was 68 PSI, which I reduced (via the pressure regulator) to 60 PSI, the generally recommended maximum water pressure for homes. (Higher pressures can damage piping, controls, valves, and appliances.) PSI’s increase to about 90 PSI after a water heater cycle with the heater set to 120 degrees. Without an expansion tank, it would stay at 90 psi until the next time (cold or hot) water was used.2. Before tank installation or before the water is turned back on, set your expansion tank to your normal PSIs using an air compressor / tire inflater. Set this way, water enters the tank only when plumbing system pressure exceeds the normal PSI.If the expansion tank PSI was set below your normal plumbing system pressure, the tank will at least partially fill with water until its internal pressure equals your normal PSI, thus reducing expansion capacity.If the expansion tank PSI is set above your normal plumbing system pressure, it won’t accept water until your plumbing system PSI exceeded tank PSI.If you forgot to set the tank PSI before turning the water on, or to reset tank pressure periodically (e.g., yearly): a) turn the water main off, drain a gallon of hot or cold water from any tap until the pressure is obviously low (water is running, but not forcefully), b) turn that faucet off, c) set tank PSI to your normal PSI, d) turn the water main back on.3. Expansion tanks can be installed anywhere in your water system, as long as it’s on a cold water pipe and after the back flow valve, pressure regulator, and usage meter (if on city water) – but, they are typically installed adjacent to a water heater, since the heater is a principal reason these tanks are needed. Tanks should be accessible and plumbed for periodic replacement. (My previous tank lasted 5 years before leaking.) Leave access room at the valve stem end for an air inflater. Consider installing a 3/4" ball valve just prior to the expansion tank to simplify replacement, if needed. And..., connect to the cold water line using a 3/4" stainless steel braided hot water heater connecting hose, available at Lowes or HD – again to simplify replacement.Tanks can be hung vertically, be upside down, or mounted horizontally – although some models may advise vertical mounting. If horizontal, the tank must have sufficient strapping/brackets to support a tank full of water. 4 or 6 gallon expansion tanks installed upside down will likely need additional support to prevent falling to the side if full of water. In earthquake areas, support straps are required for all expansion tanks as well as water heaters.4. When a water heater’s element is on, its water supply expands, increasing plumbing system pressure. Higher water temperatures result in greater pressures and will therefore need more expansion tank capacity. “Excess” system pressure can damage a water heater and/or plumbing. A typical home has a back-flow preventer valve near where the cold water enters the house, making it a closed system. If pressure exceeds a preset maximum (e.g., 150 psi), the water heater relief valve opens briefly, releasing hot water and excess pressure; which of course wastes hot water and energy. To prevent this event, install an expansion tank.5. If the pressure relief valve is faulty, replace it; never replace that valve with a plug as that converts your water heater into a potential pressure bomb.6. Rather than using pipe thread tape (good, but with occasional leaks), try Millrose 76015 Monster or Rectorseal 23631, both are high quality pipe thread sealants.7. Shutting a water valve off quickly can, in some plumbing systems, cause pipes to shake, rattle, and/or bang -- sometimes loudly. Uncorrected, this banging could eventually result in damaged pipes or leaks. A popular remedy is to install a water hammer arrester, a device with a trapped air pocket or an internal spring / plunger meant to absorb some excess water pressure (see customer images.) Arresters provide a small expansion capability. E.g., a 3/4" Watts water hammer arrester, fairly large at 7" long, has a maximum capacity of 3 cubic inches of “expansion” – while expansion tanks can absorb as much as 231 cubic inches per gallon of capacity. If the internal PSI of an expansion tank is set to exactly match your systems normal pressure, the tank’s full capacity is available. Set this way, an expansion tank should absorb most, if not all hammer shock, eliminating the banging altogether.8. If pipes bang with water hammer arresters installed, consider adding an expansion tank to the cold water line. It’s OK to have more than one expansion tank in a plumbing system.

The unit works well as designed. Tip, first check your homes water pressure, by using the outdoor water spigot. A cheap gauge bought on amazon or any hardware store will do. After you have that reading set the pressure in the tank accordingly, by removing the black cap. These units really save wear and tear on all plumbing fixtures by avoiding the excess water pressure, which is created once the water is heated, as heated water expands and puts unneeded pressure on fixtures, if you do not have a expansion tank. Very well made and will protect fixtures from excess pressure failures.

Looks to be good quality. It took me a while to find the pre charge air valve. Note, It's located under the black cap on top of the tank. Unscrew by hand to remove the black cap to pre charge with air.

Does the tank leak pressure over time (year) and need to be adjusted?? I have had two I replaced as got heavier and heavier. Have a spare but it just may be normal air leakage?Do not want to replace with spare if simple air pressure adjustment??

Lasted 6 years then bladder broke. Not recommended.

Slightly dented put performs. Granted it has a steel casing and looks don’t matter if it is buried beside the hot water heater however it creates concern with how long the product will last. Time will tell.

Glad to see someone selling at a REASONABLE price. He also shipped very quickly. If you're not familiar with these tanks, they go into your Cold side waterline right at the water heater. They relieve heated water expansion pressure.(created by one-way check valve (back flow preventer)in line or in water meter.Most people are unaware they need these and have water leakage at their hot water valves.(I kept blowing washers,and had a mysterious "puddle" form on my vanity overnight. I started seeing these in more and more homes without wells(that's what I thought they were solely used for) So I looked into them. This brand, flextrol , had the best ,most technical/relevant product description, butyl bladder,Stainless steel fitting(less reactive with other metals)and the poly-ethylene lined tank vs. plain "powder coat?"steel. was the deciding feature.

Very good product quality, shipped quickly and delivered on time. Buy with confidence.