Anet A8 Plus 3D Printer Upgraded from Anet A8, All-Metal Frame, Larger Hotbed Size 300x300mm, Adjustable Belts Design, Moveable Operation LCD Display, Over-Current Protection Mainboard

Product arrived in terrible condition. Most parts were mislabeled, and after two weeks of setting up the printer, it didn’t function as shown. Awful product, wouldn’t recommend. The cords broke even when set up was done correctly. A refund would be nice since this can be seen as false advertising.

It comes almost assembled. Took me less than 2 hours to set and adjust everything. Solid frame, glass bed, big print volume and powerful power supply has been the things I like on this printer. Easy to adjust the belt tension mechanism was a plus too.

I already own another anet printer, so I know what I am getting into. Be aware that these machines might not work when they are received and might not give a good print quality. Anet printers to me are projects, you get one in the mail, then repair and print the damaged parts from improper packaging and assembly (from anet). Then begin tinkering with settings and adjustments to get a quality print.Like I said this is my second anet. I buy them because they're cheap and easy to get upgradable parts for. Think of it as a blank canvas.

This printer is great except for the extruder. I ran it for 2 days before I tore it apart to upgrade it. 1st, it clogged a couple times on the same filament and gcode that prints great on another printer. The heatsink for the cold end is tiny. I don't see how that would ever be enough to stop heat creep. 2nd, the line layed down isn't smooth and consistent. It's blobby like there's not enough steps for a given length to create anything smooth.No big deal, I thought. I'll replace it with a Titan Aero, like in my other printer. This requires you print a new bracket and update the firmware. Since this a newer version with an upgraded board, there's no documentation or online tutorials on how to do it on this board. If you follow instructions on how to flash an older a8, it bricks the board. I'm sure someone can figure it out. But I gave up after a couple days and ordered a duet board. So now I'm in for another $250 in upgrades on top of the original cost. I don't mind, it's going to be REALLY nice when I'm done.BTW, since there are 2 Z-axis motors, it's a pain to keep them in sync. Consider printing markers that clip to the couplings, so you can align them after homing

Unit arrived damaged, found wrong wire tags. Prints great and works well for the price. I emailed the anet with no response yet to see if I could have the broken parts replaced.

UPDATED March 2020: Extruder Stepper Motor Died, As Did The Stepper Driver On The Mainboard, Under 100 Hours Of Printing, And All It Does Now Is Click-Click-Click. I Can Push The Filament Through By Hand, But No Where Near Enough Power Coming From The Main Board To Make It Run Stable. Sourcing A More Reliable Mainboard With Individual Stepper Drivers And A Higher Grade Stepper Motor. Also, They Might Want To Brace The Gantry Of This Printer, As Tall Prints Make The Printer Walk Across The Table, And Even Leads To Bumpy Z Surface.(UPDATE APRIL 2020) Not Only Poor Designed Mainboard, If You Do Get A Replacement, There Is No Way To Update The firmware (Marlin) Because Anet8 Is Holding Back The Config.h Files Required To Get All The Default Settings. Reason For Replacement, Burnt Out Stepper Driver, Under Volting The Stepper Motor. Poor Design Is Have The Stepper Driver Directly On Board Without The Means To Adjust The Power Levels Without Surface Mounting And Removing Resistors, Potentiometers Seem To Not Exist In Their World.So, If You Get The Mostly Assembled Version, Make Sure You Adjust The X-Axis Rails, Mine Were 3mm Off, Which Caused A Few Of My Larger Prints Off The Edge Of The Print Surface. . There Is Some Weird Surface Jitter In The X-Y Axis. Same Problem "Maker's Muse" Had On YouTube.For The Money, This Is Not A Bad Printer, Especially Considering The Print Volume, Which Is Actually 296mm x 296mm x 299mm. If You Print To The Suggest Max, Your Heated Bed Clips Will Go Flying, And Can Even Make The Print Jump As I Collides With The Z-Axis Stands Or The Y-Axis Carriage. "Please Make Sure Thermal Runaway Is Turn On In The Marlin Configuration.

So far so good. I've printed generic PLA (Glow in the dark), PETG & TPU with decent results. I'm using a modified CR-10 profile for Cura but it still needs a bit of tuning before I'll be able to set it and leave it. Hopefully someone will create a modified firmware to add a BLTouch ABL soon to make this even better!

Off the bat the carriage with nozzle and extruded shook when printing causing marks in the print. Without replacing the whole piece you would have to live with very rough prints. I had to grab a e3d v6 nozzle and design a mount for that and extruder to be able to get the prints I wanted out of a sturdy mount. As expected it’s very loud. Installation and setup was easy very few things to put together as it was practically in 3 pieces and that’s it. Wiring was easy and plenty of cable management to clean it up. Would I recommend for someone just getting into printing, no. For someone who’s willing to take the time and do the mods to get the sturdy print quality.