LED 6 Inch Recessed Low Profile Slim Panel Light with Junction Box, IC Rated Air Tight, 12W, 800 Lumens, 3000K Warm White, CRI80+, Dimmable, Damp Location, ETL (4 Packs)

I bought 7 of the 4-packs of the 3000K 4" 550 lumen fixtures based on some lighting calculations I did for my basement finishing project, consisting of about 800 square feet of finished space. I prefer the look of 4" fixtures to 6" fixtures and opted for a greater number of lights for more even light distribution. When I first wired one of these lights in to see it in action, I was certain I had bought way too many lights. But I decided to wire them all up with the layout that I had mapped out and see how it looked. In the end I was glad I stuck with the density of lights that I chose. In the pictures, the ceiling tiles are 2 ft. x 2 ft. to help you get a sense of how close I put them. I made certain these were dimmable and did a bit of research into the best kind of dimmers for them, as I want the ability to crank up the light when desired and tone it down when not (see more on the dimmers in my notes below). I used a hole saw to cut the circle in the tiles and slipped these in with two 3/8" romex clamps in each. Things to note: - One of the dimmer switches I put in controls 19 of the lights, for which I bought a Lutron DVELV-303P-WH 300 dimmer, as it can dim up to 300 watts (most only handle up to 150 watts when dealing with LEDs). I installed and tested that dimmer (which requires a neutral to be pigtailed to the dimmer) and it worked flawlessly. ZERO buzz or hum from the dimmer or any of the lights at any intensity setting. Note that this dimmer is the 3-way dimmer version, you can get a DVELV-300P-WH 300 if you don't need 3-way functionality though it costs about the same. - There's a small bedroom off on the side (not shown in the pictures) in which I have only 3 of these lights installed. That room is perhaps 150 square feet. I didn't want to spend big bucks for another DVELV-303P-WH 300, so I used a Lutron DVCL-153P-WH on that one. It's about one-third the price of the DVELV. It works fine, there is no buzz or hum with that one either, but you have to set the dial on the switch to the minimum brightness that works for you, and depending on how you set it you may have lag between flipping the switch on and the lights illuminating. - The color output of the lights I chose has the yellow-ish hue you'd expect from a 3000K light. I have other LEDs in the house that are 2700K and I can tell these are not as yellow as those, so I think the color temp is as rated. - I dropped at least 3 of the metal junction boxes on the cement floor from atop my ladder while screwing these into the bottoms of the joists. I was expecting at least one of them to fail on account of that. But so far, all lights are working correctly. - My drop ceiling tile bottom out at about 10" to 11" below the bottom of the joists. As long as I centered the junction boxes as well as possible over a square in the grid, and made sure that I positioned the boxes such that the connection wire pointed in the general direction of where the fixture would snap in, I didn't have any trouble making the connection between the junction box and the fixture. - The group of 19 lights in the main area are connected with 14-gauge wire on a 15-amp circuit. - The 3 lights in the bedroom and 6 lights in what will be a wet bar area are all on 12-gauge wire on separate 20-amp circuits. I wired those rooms before buying these lights, and I expected it to be a pain to work with 12-gauge wire with these lights. While 12-gauge wire is stiffer and harder to work with than 14-gauge, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the quick-connect push-in connections do accept 12-gauge wire. I expected they only took 14-gauge. So I didn't have to cut and wire nut the wires together. Now that I put into play all 28 of the lights I bought, I am thinking of buying another pack of these lights in case some of my fixtures or the drivers in the junction boxes fail down the road. I worry that years from now I won't be able to find a 1:1 replacement -- that it'd look slightly different in color or that the driver wouldn't support my dimmer, etc. I'm happy with these so far, as is my wife.

I've never installed recessed lights before, but I have done electrical work so I knew what I was getting into. These lights are awesome, the light output is great, very bright and very much like a flood light as opposed to a spot light. Perfect for bedroom or kitchen. The template that comes with them is exactly correct and needs no additional trimming. I used an adjustable drywall circular saw to cut the ceiling but I used the template to adjust the blades. It turned out awesome and I love the look and how bright they are. More over, the lights work with certain dimmers too. I picked up a Leviton dimmer from Homedepot and it works perfectly fine. No flickering whatsoever. I am planning to buy extra lights and have them as spares in case they decide to go out over time. They seem well built and consistent thus far, but who knows what happens a few years from now. One piece of advice I can give you is to get yourself (2 per light) 3/8 in knockout plastic plugs. You will need them for your metal box when you run Romex in and out of it. The box is made out of very thin sheet metal. If you don't use plugs it will cut into your cable, and potentially cause a short in the 120V cable... You don't want that happening up in your ceiling. Anyway, these plugs were a nightmare to use but well worth it for the piece of mind. A short in a cable up in the ceiling can easily cause a fire, so take all the precautions you can. Also, using these plugs will keep your electrical work in compliance with electrical code. Again, I'm not an electrician but I'm an engineer and I know what I'm doing. Please consult a local electrician to be sure. However, better safe than sorry. I wish the lights came with these knockout plugs. Those plugs cost nothing in China. Again, that may not be part of the electrical code elsewhere but here in US it is. It would've saved me a trip to Homedepot while I was in the middle of the project. I chose the 3000K color temperature because it most resembles incandescent lighting. I feel that is the warmest kind of light for use at home. If you need it for an office, you may choose 5000K. Then you get the blueish light instead. Other than that, I would have given this product 6 stars if I could.

I recently bought a house with nothing but dismal fluorescent lighting in the kitchen. Decided to make an upgrade, and WOW do these make a difference. With their bright, warm white light, these make excellent kitchen task lighting, but they would work well anywhere. And the price!! Lowe's lists nearly identical kits for $140. These are a great bargain. They are slim enough to place directly under joists if necessary, and they're also really easy to wire. The only trouble I ran into was finding a hole saw - I could not find one the size of these lights, so I ended up sawing the holes by hand, which yielded less-than-perfect results, but the bezels provide a little forgiveness.

These lights are great. The 3k is the best for the eyes. Not orange/yellow like incandescent (2700k) and not the putrid cold blue white (4000k and above). Easy to install. As others pointed out the push connectors in the junction boxes are single use. If you accidentally push the wrong wire in the wrong connector you will have to cut off and use wire nuts. Safe to cover with insulation which is great. The springs are strong and the fit to ceiling is tight. Use a 4.25" hole saw for easy hole cutting in the ceiling. The romex stress relief connectors are not included for the knockouts. This is common in electrical work and products. No one should be surprised by this as there are many types of wire sheathing/shield that require different connectors. Just by what you need-they are cheap. Happy with them so far.

These lights are pretty slick. They are very low profile, and easy to install. They are also very bright and put out quality light. I gave it four stars instead of 5 mainly due to the build on the LED driver. To meet the national electrical code, wire needs to be secured as it enters the fixture/driver. The driver has a standard 1/2" knockout that fits a NM cable connector. Luckily I had plenty of these on hand, so no big deal. However, the need for a cable clamp isn't indicated anywhere, so I'm sure a lot of DIYers have loose wires rubbing against sharp metal sheeting - an arc fault fire waiting to happen and an NEC ventilation. I would have preferred a more solidly built case on the LED driver with cable clamps either built in or included. The push-in wire connectors were nice. No complaints there. I do want to note also that I did experience trouble with one of the four in the first four pack. I installed all four from this pack. Three worked perfectly, and everything was a breeze to install. However, three of them were wired in a series on one switch. Once everything was wired I went to flip the combination AFCI/GFCI breaker back on, the AFCI/GFCI would trip. I rechecked all of the wiring and found no issues. I eventually troubleshot it by removing lights one-by-one on the circuit and flipping the breaker on so that I could track down the short. The final LED driver on the circuit was the problem. It was wired correctly, which leaves me to believe that the LED driver itself was the culprit. I've left seller feedback requesting that they send a replacement LED driver. They couldn't send a single LED driver replacement since they come in four packs. However, they did give me a coupon code for 75% off another four pack. That worked for me. I haven't installed those four fixtures yet, but hopefully they all work. I'll update this rating once I do.

I'm renovating my basement bathroom and needed some lights that were easy to install with a drop ceiling and provided adequate lighting. I installed 3 of these in the relatively small bathroom and they are fantastic. Installation was a breeze, and though I've done plenty of electric work in the past, I'm no expert. The wiring clips make daisy-chaining multiple lights in a row simple and foolproof. The canless design allows you to mount the ballast box up on your floor joists or ceiling rafters, then worry about the final placement when the drop ceiling is installed later on. The only thing I would like to see added is some wiring protection where the romex enters the ballast box. I will be buying more of these lights in the future for elsewhere in my house.

UPDATE Not long after use, two of these lights have failed. Extremely happy with this product. I ordered four sets for our interior light upgrade. The installation was very simple. We ordered a hole saw with the dimensions noted in the product details for easy installation. I was able to cut the new hole around the existing hole as a guide for placement. We ran our hole saw on reverse. Doing this in a reverse cut, the saw cuts right through the drywall ceiling, and the teeth do not cut the trusses or floor joist. I saw that tip on a YouTube video! The wiring is simple. Black to black, white to white, and green to the copper from the house wire (just like any ordinary light fixture). Our ceilings are 5/8" drywall and the lights mounted flush with no gaps at all. The color temperature is perfect. 4000K was bright of a white for inside. The 3000K is ideal for a home environment. We did have to make a run to one of the big box stores for the plastic bushings. These lights do not come with them. We paid about a dollar per five pack of the bushings. You will need them, just as others have stated. We will be ordering more for the exterior of the house.

These light were extremely easy to install and look great. I used these lights to replace the surface mounted lights in my garage. They are super bright. The wiring was a snap with no need to mount the junction box. Make sure you use the proper size hole saw blade. I used a Elisen 6 inch cutter and it was about 1/4 inch too small. Next time I'll cut a sample piece of drywall first to test the fit. No fault of the lights. I would buy again and I highly recommend