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Notice: Pipe Threadstandard is NPT(America Standard) Description: 1.Product size: 1" FNPT 2.Maximum Working Pressure: 1.0MPa 3.Circulation Medium: Water,Oil,Gas 4.Rated Voltage: DC12V 5.Wiring Control Methods:CR02 6.Working Current: 80MA 7.Open/close Time: 3-5 sec. 8.Valve Body Material: Stainless Steel 304 9.Actuator Material: Engineering Plastics 10.Sealing Material: EPDM 11.Cable Length: 0.5m 12.Environment Temperature:-15°~50° 13.Liquid Temperature: -5°~100° 14.Manual Override: NO 15.Indicator: NO 16.Protection Class: IP67
N**U
Flipping Awesome (UPDATE: Literally saved my BACOn)
Wow, what an amazing novelty. It took me forever to find this. Valves like this are actually OEM'd from a company in China, KLD, and come in various sizes and with various features. BACOENG was the only supplier that I found to supply the two-way, 3-wire 12v DC valve that I wanted, aside from ordering it on Aliexpress, which was just too shady for me. This model is the KLD20S.Now, to my application and the actual function of the device. I am DIY'ing a water shutoff system for my finished basement. My basement flooded four years ago, and I will do everything in my power to mitigate water damage to my $20k remodel job. I searched the internet for dozens of hours and stumbled upon an automatic ball valve at a smart home website, but they wanted $100 for one valve. I noted the label on their valve and immediately googled the model number and came up with the KLD website. I plugged that into amazon, but got nothing. So then I finally searched for "motorized ball valve" and got this in the results. Success!Since this requires 12vDC, I ordered a CCTV power supply distribution box with 4 ports. I also ordered 100ft of 18/2 wire (red+white A/C compressor wire), a couple of single gang handy boxes, and some 12v momentary press switches.As you can see in the pictures, I hooked up the valve to my water heater. I connected the power open lead to the momentary press switch. The power close lead is connected to a water sensor. The valve works flawlessly. Water closes the circuit on the water sensor pad, activating the power close lead on this valve. It closes in ~3 seconds. It completely shuts off the water, resulting in no hot pressure in my pex system. Don't really need an alarm because it'll be pretty obvious if there's no pressure. All I have to do is then press and hold the momentary switch to open the valve - another ~3 seconds.As far as installation, just attach some 3/4" NPT sharkbite fittings with prodope. I ran conduit down next to the water heater for a clean install look, but you really could just zip tie the wire to your water line.All in all I have 4 of these, 1 3/4" for my water heater, 1 1/2" for my washing machine cold line, 1 1/2" for my Saniflo toilet, and 1 1/2" for my bathroom sink cold line. The sensors at the washing machine and bathroom sink are also wired into the 3/4" valve, so both hot and cold close.My next step is to test this setup with an arduino, so instead of the water sensor passing voltage (which with the sensors I have tends to be hit or miss - not quite good enough conductivity), the arduino would be sensing voltage (+3v~+12v) from the sensor and then close the water heater valve with its own full +12v power output.THANK YOU BACOENG FOR SUPPLYING THIS VALVE!!!!UPDATE 6/27/2016: So after approximately 6 months in service, my DIY water mitigation system has saved my [BACOn] three times. This valve (all 4 of my valves) have all worked flawlessly. The best story by far was when I was taking a shower, I heard a "thump" and about 5 seconds later the water just shut off. Mildly irritated (and totally forgetting I had these valves in place), I toweled up (don't need to scar my children for life) and went downstairs. Turns out my bathtub drain decided to fall apart (yay) and was dumping water all over the basement floor (double yay), the part of the floor where....drum roll....my sensors were placed! The water on the sensor pad closed the circuit and closed the 3/4" valve on my water heater, thereby turning off my delightfully scalding-hot shower and saving my basement from certain doom. Vindication from all of the people who balked, "You're being OCD." (ironically, I have OCD, so I am literally OCD about everything!)Material list for my project:EVERTECH 4 Channel 3 Ampere PTC FUSE CCTV DVR Security Camera Metal Power Supply Boxuxcell® OFF-(ON) NO 19mm Metal Momentary Push Button Switch 2 Screw Terminals 2A 36V DCFloodstop Individual Water Appliance Additional Water Sensor XS-01SharkBite U134LFA 3/4-Inch by 3/4-Inch MNPT SharkBite Lead Free Straight ConnectorSharkBite U120LFA 1/2-Inch by 1/2-Inch MNPT SharkBite Lead Free Straight Connector1 x BACOENG 3/4" Stainless Steel NPT CR023 x BACOENG 1/2" Stainless Steel NPT CR02 EVERTECH 4 Channel 3 Ampere PTC FUSE CCTV DVR Security Camera Metal Power Supply Boxuxcell® OFF-(ON) NO 19mm Metal Momentary Push Button Switch 2 Screw Terminals 2A 36V DCFloodstop Individual Water Appliance Additional Water Sensor XS-01SharkBite U134LFA 3/4-Inch by 3/4-Inch MNPT SharkBite Lead Free Straight ConnectorSharkBite U120LFA 1/2-Inch by 1/2-Inch MNPT SharkBite Lead Free Straight Connector
T**Y
great deal !
giving it 5 stars for the price/quality/functionalityconsidering this thing would cost over $200 if it was not made in chinawhilst other vendors deliver same quality but just overcharge youlittle info on the valve:- 12 volts, low on Amps (im able to open close it with 1A and even a little more pressure then its designed for)- if planning to use this for Arduino, get a positive mosfet or H-bridge controller or a simple relay- valve opening can be controlled by timing, a few milliseconds from close to open would give a 5% to 10% flowi build a limiter on the hot water shower, so my son has 3 minutes time to showerthen the valve kicks in and closes the valve 95% so the shower keeps drippingso he will close the valve after he finishes, its a great way to save moneyalso the valve doesnt consume energy when in closed/halfopen or open position, it stops when you cut the powerand will keep this position till you apply power to open or close itgreat deal for any arduino project and home automationonly one thing ive noticed, the thread is weirdlike the couplings for 1/2" ball valve dont fit rightwith alot of force i managed to screw in the couplings, the thread seems a bit off then the standard size
L**R
Wiring it is pretty easy. Yellow wire to - side of transformer
I used this valve as a water shutoff for my outdoor kitchen and outdoor shower. It is connected to a 12v transformer designed to run landscape lighting. Aside from the 12v power source, you'll need a 3 way switch. I bought a 3 way toggle (center off) switch from lowes today. Wiring it is pretty easy. Yellow wire to - side of transformer , blue to one side of the switch to close the valve, red to other side of switch to open and you'll need to run a wire from the center terminal of the switch to the + side of the transformer. Done. It took me almost as long to type this as it did to wire it up on the workbench to test it out. I bought 2 male sharkbite fittings to connect to the PEX line that feeds the kitchen/shower. Works well, I just hope it lasts.
D**.
Highly recommended-- built tough and does the job well
Wow! Compared to the rubbish DIGITEN Solenoid valves, the difference is like night and day. The BACOENG ball valves are sturdily built, and they do the job. You don't need to worry about if your valve is open or closed, as it will do so regardless of if there is any line pressure (an issue with the DIGITENs). The quality metal components of the BACOENGs also give you peace of mind about interfacing them with full-pressure water lines (unlike the flimsy plastic housing of the DIGITENs). The only thing to watch out for-- as others in the comments have mentioned-- is that you must limit the current. I chose to use a power supply with a limited current rather than use a resistor for the sake of efficiency. Just know that they won't function if the current is too high. The first power supply I used had too much current, but fortunately it didn't damage anything: it just wouldn't turn on. Switching to the lower-current supply did the trick. Another thing: you CAN use these with a relay board (to interface with a Raspberry Pi or Arduino) despite the three wires. I highly recommend these for any project!
K**B
Amazing Motorized Valve
Very happy with this valve. It is working great and I now can do plumbing jobs without going outside to shut off the main water line. Most of the gears inside are plastic, with the exception of one or two. Hopefully they will last a long time, but if there is a failure I have used compression fittings so I can easily replace the whole unit. I was able to modify a zwave device to operate it on 12VDC and 3d printed a case for it. I will provide updates if I have any issues.
Trustpilot
2 weeks ago
2 weeks ago