Raynox DCR-250 Macro Attachment

I had read that it didn't degrade image quality at all but surely it must? It's putting more glass between the subject and the sensor right? Well I can only assume that this is (as stated) top quality glass made to the same level of precision as the best lenses because I can see no loss of quality.I am a bit of a macro geek and have several set ups that work well. I have the macro setting on a 70-300mm lens (not true macro, it's 1:2), I have a Nikon 40mm 1:1 macro lens and I have a bellows set up on which I use an old manual 70-210mm Tamron adaptall. I have listed them in order of magnification potential from least to best but they are also in order of convenience from most to the down right awkward. (I am getting to a point, I promise).I have tried the Raynox with some of these and other lenses to see the results. It basically works by allowing the chosen lens to focus much closer than it normally could and so improves the macro capability of that set up. So on the front of the 70-300 it can focus at 300mm only a few cm in front of the lens and produces results akin to my 'monster' bellows set up without the inconvenience. I could basically take this set up anywhere while I've never ventured outside my house and garden with the bellows. Surprisingly, it doesn't vignette on this lens despite the Raynox having a 43mm thread and the 70-300 having a 62mm filter thread. (The largest filter thread it will fit is a 67mm which is what my 18-105 lens has and it does vignette on this. This is not a problem though as I am quite used to cropping macro shots anyway (see later also).On the 40mm macro lens I could not get any improvement as this lens already needs the subject to be almost on the front of the lens for 1:1 anyway.On my bellows set up it also improved magnification by allowing closer focusing.If you owned a very long lens (400,500mm+) with a 67mm or less filter thread (or a step down ring) or a longer than my 40mm macro lens you could get some astonishing results (though you may have to crop on some lenses).As the info says, best results are with longer focal lengths and this is true. It basically turns almost any lens into a close focussing lens, and without loss of quality as far as I can see.

Works well

Tried out this Raynox DCR macro lens on my Canon SX20IS for the first time tonight. Have to say I'm pleased with the results.I photo a lot of flowers etc and work mainly without a tripod; I prefer handheld shots in natural light as it gives me a lot of variety in small changes of angles, distance etc. I tend to shoot a lot of images so I can choose only those with good composition, overall sharp focus etc. (Be prepared to bin a lot of shots with macro photography!)Attaching the lens using the adapter operates on the same principle as attaching a lens cap; push in both spring-loaded 'prongs' at either side, push onto the camera's lens and release.Personally I can't see the point of trying to screw the lens directly onto the camera's lens barrel; I've also heard this can damage the fine threads etched just inside it. (I need those for my polarising filter.) BTW - you have to remove any polarising filters etc in order to attach the Raynox macro lens.I used the Raynox on a small flower with lots of long, wispy stamen and long leaves that I had previously been unable to get satisfactory results with the SX20is's otherwise good macro and super-macro settings; there were so many small points, spread widely, to focus on on this flower that it was proving impossible for the auto-focus to capture the entire flower in good overall focus.This Raynox lens managed it just fine. The magnification is as good as any I've got with the SX20is's super-macro; and I haven't yet really begun exploring it's capabilities.It only took a short while to get the hang of using this lens; but if you're used to using the SX20's usual macro settings (which disable the zoom) using the zoom to get focus (or changing your own position) is a little disconcerting, but I soon adapted. (I also have very 'steady hands'.)It's worth noting the instructions that accompany this product are pretty basic. You'll have to find a lot out for yourself.If you have some experience of macro, and grasp the basic principles of how the Raynox operates, the rest should fall into place.One point to look out for is that it is possible to get a good shot, but one framed in a circle, presumably of the lens housing (due to the zoom being used and the distance from the object I guess); but as long as you have enough room to crop (I shoot at the largest possible size and quality, and often also shoot a little 'wide' so I can still crop to A4 size, at a resolution that will give a high standard print) you can still end up with a usable shot.But this was only my first attempt using this lens; I have no doubt that as time goes on I will become more skilled in its use; particularly if I take the advice to use a tripod a lot more.I am already quite impressed with how well the lens performed and feel that for this price it's already proved a good investment. For comparison DSLR macro lenses are many times more expensive.On that basis I recommend this Raynox lens to other Canon SX users that really want to push their macro photography (and macro takes a fair bit of perseverance and dedication) that bit further, but aren't ready or willing (or can't afford) to go the full DSLR (+ all the required lenses) route.This lens + adaptor is also cheap enough to take a risk on; I'm aspiring to save enough to go the DSLR 'prosumer' route (add in the lenses and it ain't cheap), so when I do I'll hope to sell this on via ebay or a camera club etc. If you try the Raynox and don't get on with it you should be able to sell it on; the Canon SX series is a popular one; and it fits other brands too.As with everything else I've ordered from Amazon this product arrived at my workplace within a few days and in excellent condition.

OK, ill post some pics on here, but first of all, is it a solution to an expensive macro lens...NO, will it do until you learn or buy one, deffo!Do not expect to pick this up stick it to your lens and fire away, I did and the results were pretty bad, its taken me about month and 200-300 half decent shots and a lot more blurry out of focus shots to finally understand what i need to do, you will need...Light lots of it, don't go and macro at night unless you have the right equipment to shine said light, you will also need a very steady hand and patience, a tripod is a must for fixed objects maybe even a rail would help, but even a slight breeze outside and you will be frustrated, free hand is the key here and it means tucking your arms in and rocking back and forth with continuous shoot off but a fast click finger.But once you get to grips you can get some photos that match up to macro lens on the cheap, where it fails over dedicated macro lenses is DOF on a Proper Macro lens you get a shallow depth of field but on this is even shallower and at 200mm its really difficult to capture anything at any angle it will be straight on or nothing dread to think what a 300mm lens would get! example of this is you could focus on a spiders eyes but is fangs will be out of focus and they are less than a millimeter depth away! the sweet spot i would say is 95-105mm to get a full frame shot of a insect that's no more than 2-3cm across, of course cropping will help if you zoom out a little but you want that minute detail and you may struggle.But for the product as it is and what it provides there is no better alternative to a macro lens so i give 5 stars on that basis.