Tuff Torq Genuine OEM 19216899490 Pump Bearing Kit for K51 Transaxle

Even though it was not shaped the same on the lower part of the shaft, it was correct length and diameter. Slid right into place!

Popped it in and it worked great

Worked on my Scotts 1642 mowerCame later than promised due to shipper waiting until the day before it was promised before shipping.

All the comments below sum it up, this isn't difficult, just takes some time! -- Before you remove the old input shaft, dump the old oil...I found out Tuff Torq now recommends a 5W-50 oil. I couldn't find that viscosity so used Mobil 15W-50. The Tuff Torq site has instructions on how to purge the air out of the unit after all is done.....fairly easy too. In all from start to finish about a 3 hour job.....and this is from someone who never took a transaxle out of a rider! In a nutshell....remove the cutting deck. Take a picture of the drive belt routing (you'll thank me for this!), with a ratchet/socket release the tension off the idler pully and slip the belt off of the back pully on the transaxle (my belt was fairly new, I put it on last year so I did not have to replace). I put the back hitch of the mower on a Rhino Ramp/w some wood blocking to get the rear wheels off the ground and chocked the front tires. Remove the rear tires, remove the brake linkage (cotter pin) on the left side, remove the F-N-R lever on the right side. The free wheeling lever that sticks out the back can be removed too, I found this made it a lot easier, it is held on by a small friction cone ring, I removed with needle nose plies but don't bugger it up so you can reuse it! Now it is easy, 6 bolts and out it comes! the rear bolts on one side are a little longer than the other side...I figured this out when putting the transaxle back on! Clean the transaxle up, I used a pressure washer but didn't get to crazy with it. Let it dry. Now you need a good set of Circlip pliers. Remove the fan/pully and spacers. take note on the order they go on. Remove the oil plug (Big Plug) and turn it upside down over a 5-gal bucket to drain the old oil, replace plug after so debris doesn't get in the transaxle. Remove the rubber seal on the input shaft, remove large C-clip, I put a pair of Vice grips on the shaft and tapped upward with a hammer. Didn't need too much force. Insert the spring (takes a little fiddling) and put the new shaft on. I used a 8" long piece of pipe, put a piece of wood over it and tapped the bearing down. Filled up with Mobil 5W-50 to about an inch below the opening, reinstalled the filter (cleaned with solvent), put in big spring and put the cap on. Installed back on tractor. Purged unit (instructions on purging is available on the Tuff Torq website)....IT WORKS LIKE NEW!!!! If I can do it, YOU can do it!!!!!

I replaced this item on a 2002 John Deere. I elected to replace this part to keep from having to replace an otherwise perfectly fine machine. The installation was pretty easy after the transmission was removed. I think the Pump Bearing Kit installation time was 20 minutes.

Just what i needed. The part itself instal was cake. Getting to that point and after sucked

Bought this for my brother who was repairing the Tough Torq transmission in his Scotts tractor. Came next day and fixed the problem. What more could you ask for?

Direct replacement fit. Requires some force to install. Installation instructions not included......consult YouTube.