🚀 Blast through clogs like a pro—because your drains deserve the power move!
The Original JetSnake Sewer Jetter is a 50-foot gas-powered drain cleaner designed for professional-grade unclogging. Compatible exclusively with gas pressure washers up to 4200 PSI and 4.2 GPM, it features a compact, multi-jet nozzle that scrubs, breaks apart, and flushes debris from indoor and outdoor drains. Built for durability and efficiency, it outperforms electric snakes and augers by delivering deeper, more thorough cleaning with a ready-to-use complete kit.
Brand | The Original JetSnake |
Material | Polyurethane, Polyester, Steel, Brass, Steel (braided center jacket) |
Item Weight | 3.6 Pounds |
Maximum Pressure | 4200 Pound per Square Inch |
Item Length | 5E+1 Feet |
UPC | 700736252192 |
Manufacturer | JetterTex |
Part Number | JT50DA |
Item Weight | 3.55 pounds |
Item model number | JT50DA |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Power Source | Gas-Powered |
Flow Rate | 4.2 Gallons Per Minute |
Hose Length | 50 Feet |
Performance Description | Gas Pressure Washers Up to 4.2 GPM/ Up to 4200 PSI |
Batteries Included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
A**K
Forget Drain Snake, Chemical or Bio Clean
If you have a clog or slow drain in your kitchen sink, it's likely from years of grease and crud. All a drain snake does is poke a hole thru the grease and the instant power drain cleaner is only going to melt a small hole in the grease. Sooner than later, it'll back up again or just drain annoyingly slowly and you'll be snaking it again in two to three months.After battling this slow drain on and off for two years, there has got to be better way. I called a couple of plumbers and it's $350 just to send a camera down and then $300/hour to jet it from the clean out side. That makes sense since their jetting system is powerful and it's too big and messy to jet it from the kitchen side.I stumbled on to clog hog but Amazon doesn't sell it so this was the closest thing in size to get around the bends in my 2 inch pipe. I watched a couple of YouTube videos and decided the cheaper and bigger hose and more powerful head is not going to go around the bends very easily jetting it from the kitchen side.I test this out in the patio with my Honda pressure washer to get an idea of how far and powerful the jetter is. I then taped a 5 ft section from the tip with red electrical tape, 8ft with yellow and 10 ft with green. I then also tape every 10 ft to get an idea of where the hose is while it's inside the drain.If you have an island sink then remove the air admittance valve and go thru there. Disconnect the p trap any way and put at least a two gallon bucket underneath it to collect nasty back flow.I remove the AAV and push the hose straight down past the the first bend. I got in 8 ft before I hit another bend. I then proceed to connect the jetter to my pressure washer and begin jetting.Knowing I have at least 25 ft of grease build up, I quickly pulse the jetter as far down as I can. I got to 30 ft before I couldn't proceed any further. I then begin the scrubbing process. Back and forth for 5 ft then sending it all the way down to wash the debris. Repeat again at 20-25 depth and then all the way to 30 ft to jet away the debris from 20-25 ft. Repeat the process at 15-20, 10-15, 5-10. After about 2 hours, I felt I cleaned the walls of the drain pipe well enough. You'll know since you won't get backflow when there's no debris clogging the line. I stop at 5 ft and shut off the pressure washer and pull the jetter out.A gallon of water now drops like a rock thru the drain even with the faucet running. Now I'm going to do preventative pressure cleaning once a year.Update 11/15/2023, sink was draining slow. Having an air admittance valve on the island kitchen sink doesn't help but it does let you know that your sink is gurgling and getting partially clogged. I was solo so I was only able to get thru the first 17 ft. I clean the 0-17 foot section of the pipe very well and it sends the debris down and clogged up where the turn at 17 ft is. That sends a backwash out to the waiting 2 gallon bucket. More hardened grease that I miss the first time, some chunks as big as 2x3 inches. I kept the nozzle at the 17 ft area and slowly jet that area. It finally clear the backwash. Remove the jetter and test it. Still gurgling sound even though lots of grease from 0-17 ft was removed. I figure there might be debris just past the 17 ft turn that is sitting there. Sent the jetter down again and with some twisting, I made it thru the turn and finally stuck at around 30 feet. Pressure wash the 17-30 ft pipe section until water is clear as seen from the drain clean out. I remove it and test it again with a sink full of water. I remove the stopper while running the faucet at a max 1.6 GPM and the sink drain the standing water and the running faucet in 3 seconds with no more gurgling sound. Hopefully I won't have to do this again for another two years or so but it's nice to know that it can blast thru any greased obstruction.
J**N
JetSnake
Was a little hesitant to order this one vs the cheaper version where you can change the heads. The instructions mentioned that you should check your piping with wire snake before ordering to ensure that the wire snake will work its way down the pipe. Since the snake was a little hard to get to turn the 90 deg elbows, I decided to go with this JetSnake option. My kitchen drain pipe is 2" and the main drain is 4". I had two pipes plugged and these were in the 2" pipe routings. I actually cut the 2" pipe with hacksaw and found it was practically plugged with only small opening at the very bottom of the pipe; this explained why the drain cleaners would only help for a few weeks; these were only cleaning the bottom of the pipe.Got the JetSnake and hooked it to my pressure washer. Removed the pee-trap under the sink. Put a plastic drain pan under the drain pipe to catch any drippings - this was really important as I found out later. I got lucky and was able to push the JetSnake hose all the way to the 4" drain pipe before applying pressure from pressure washer. BTW, I used Sharpie to mark the length every 10 ft; this allowed me to gauge how far I was and the drain pipe. I put 1 ring mark for 10 ft, 2 ring marks at 20 ft, etc. I had already measured the length of the 2" pipe and it was 17 ft. So, when I was over 20 ft in, I turned on the pressure washer. Pulled 2 ft hose out and then pushed back in 1 ft until I was near the 5 ft insertion length. Pushed the hose all the way in to 50 ft and this this 2 ft / 1 ft again. I had installed rubber joint where I cut the pipe, so I removed and could see the inside of the pipe was totally cleaned. Did same procedure for the other 2" drain from laundry room.NOTE: be careful when we get near the 5 ft or so insertion depth. The nozzle spay can and most likely will spill out into the pan under pipe opening. I used only t-shirt, holding it over the pipe opening to prevent big leakages, and also used the t-shirt as way to keep the hose dry as it was being removed from inside the dirty wet drain pipe.Bottom line: If you have 2" drain pipe with 90 deg elbows, then check with wire snake first. If that work, then choose this product. I didn't want to spend 3x the cheaper options, but I am glad I did!
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