TBS2652 4 wheel Robot Smart Car Chassis Kits Car Model with Speed Encoder Tracing

I bought this for structure in a car I'm doing but the engines are poorly stuck to the chassis making them wobble and making the wheels hit the structure, making it ultimately not work. Nothing that some hot glue won't fix, but still..

Great robot and easy to put together.. i will definitely be buying again and also was in very good packaging too 😊

This robot, motor kit is great for use with arduinos or for RC projects as the kit is reasonable quality and it provides everything needed to get it to work.The kit is produced mostly from transparent acrylic and plastic which allows it to look nice and relatively scratch free along with being able to see what is happening inside the unit once screwed together.The unit has 4 geared motor units which drive the plastic wheels along. The wheels don't have much ground clearance which means it won't work well for outdoors or for thick carpets as the wheels will not provide any grip along the ground.The metal screws and fixings that are included are very strong and secure all the pieces strongly together.Some problems that I have found with the kit are:-Difficult to remove all paper covering on acrylic-Soldering wires on is difficult when following instructions (Limited room for maneuver)-Poor instructions (More guesswork)Other than the negatives the kit works well and the included battery holder allows you to be ready to get started on your project straight away.For more sophisticated arduino projects, relays will be needed to control all motors individually.Overall this kit is great for people wanting a strong and pre-built base for their projects for a low price.This item was provided for an honest and unbiased review.

The media could not be loaded.  This robot smart car chassis by Arofume, is ideal for hobbyists or teaching / educational purposes. This is a basic design which uses four independent motor / gearboxes - one to drive each each wheel. Steering the car is achieved by changing the relative speeds of the left or right side wheels in a similar way to how a tracked vehicle steers. Controlling the motors can be done with an Arduino board + motor shield or any other suitable processor board and motor controller using pulse width modulation (PWM) methods. The finished, built car measures around 257mm long x 160mm wide (measured across the outside of the opposite wheels) x 70mm high (ground to the top of the battery holder). All of the parts are supplied in kit form and consist of the following:- Laser-cut, clear acrylic chassis plates (2), motor / gearbox 'T'-shaped mounting brackets (8) and black acrylic, slotted wheel encoder discs (4).- Four motor / gearbox units with double-ended drive shafts.- Four plastic wheels with fitted tyres.- Short lengths of pre-stripped / tinned connecting wires.- Six 30mm long hexagonal spacers (tapped M3 one end / M3 stud the other end).- Eight M3 x 30mm countersunk screws.- M3 x 6mm screws and nuts.- Battery holder for four AA types.- A4 size double-sided instruction sheet - mainly written in Chinese !Before starting to construct the car, I thought it would take around 30 minutes - it actually took around 90 minutes to have the car ready for testing. This was mainly due to being a little hasty and then finding I had to take the motors off again because the heat of the soldering iron and flux from the solder was starting to mark the clear acrylic chassis parts.So, learning from my attempt to construct this car, I would recommend the following sequence of operations:- Carefully remove the adhesive-backed, protective paper from all of the acrylic parts. This is easier said than done as it's very thin and keeps breaking !- Decide which end of the chassis will be the front and mark each chassis plate (or stick a piece of tape etc. on each plate).- Solder the wires onto the motor terminals before fitting each one onto the chassis. The terminals of the motors should be positioned nearest to the outside of the chassis plates on both the left and right sides. For a rear motor (applies to left or right sides) Solder a red wire to the upper terminal and a black wire to the lower terminal. For a front motor (applies to left or right sides) Solder a red wire to the lower terminal and a black wire to the upper terminal. This method ensures when the positive supply is connected (+ to red, - to black) all four wheels will rotate to drive the car forward.- Fit the 'T' shaped brackets from the underside chassis plate, into the rectangular slots and mount each motor, one at a time using the 30mm countersunk screws provided. Only use the minimum of force when tightening the screws or the plastic brackets may start to crack !- Fit the six spacers on the lower chassis plate using the stud-side end, and secure each spacer with a nut.- Use a small nylon tie to secure each group of motor wires to the central spacers. This will help prevent the motor terminal wires breaking at a later date.- Push each wheel onto the outboard drive shaft of each gearbox, ensuring you support the opposite (inboard) side of the gearbox to avoid damaging the support brackets. If you need to remove a wheel at a later date, use a flat, wide-blade screwdriver to lever the wheel off the shaft.- Fit the slotted encoder discs to the inboard drive shafts of each gearbox. These will need to be glued in place as they are a loose fit ! If you intend to fit optical slotted-type sensors, for use with these discs, this would be a good time to do it, before fitting the top chassis plate. No sensors or suitable fixing brackets are provided in this kit so you have to make your own.- Fit the battery holder to the top chassis plate. You'll need to provide a M3 screw longer than the 6mm ones in the kit to achieve this.- Thread each group of motor wires through the rectangular slots adjacent to the central spacers on each side. Secure the top chassis plate using the six M3 x 6mm screws.- Test the motors by connecting the red and black wires to a 6V power source.Summing up: The completed car worked quite well. I used two variable power supplies during testing, but two low voltage batteries would also work fine. This design isn't particularly strong due to the types of plastic materials used but is ideal for experimenting with. Use of a slightly thicker and stronger protective paper, which doesn't tear when being removed, would be helpful - especially if you had to assemble a number of these cars !Disclosure: Complimentary product provided for evaluation and unbiased review.

After three days of playing about with this kit I still can't decide how I'll end up using it. Reason being it's so versatile.I first tested it's mobility using a wireless circuit I ripped out of a kids remote control car I got for 50p from a carboot sale. It's never going to be a racing car but the differnial steering made it able to turn well.Only thing I have not got round to realy trying yet is the rotational decoding of the motors. I've got a couple of prebuilt led/sensor for the discbut can't find them. They are not realy needed as you can just use an led and a light sensor but you have to make a bracket.For adding sensors and microcontroler, be it Arduino or Raspberry pi there are plenty of holes to bolt them on and run the wires. I mounted my raspberry by removing the bottom layer of my Raspberry pi pibow case as there are two holes that match up.So why am I unsure? I took the one perspex sheet attached two of the motors and added a single caster from Wilkinsons (~£1.50 each)to the front. So now i have two three wheel robot bases, which seems a cheap way to have a couple of floor running bots the same that can communicate. Just seems like an ideal thing to try now that I have two bases that are the same.If your wanting to play about making bots, this chassis, a couple of castor, a sheet of plastic (about £1 from hobby shops) and a selection of M3 nuts, bolts and risers will set upOnly thing I can grumble about is the short wires that come for the motors.