HAUS Folding Pocket Knife Renegade EDC Folding Knife, Stainless Steel Blade, Burrow Wood Handle, 5 Inch Folded

Beautiful and sturdy. Centered when folded. Out of the box very sharp. Beefy knife with no play when locked open. This is my first Haus knife but I will be buying more. This is a huge value for a low cost knife.

Knifes look great, really sharp. Ordered 4 of these exact same knifes and I received 2 camo and 2 black that were gerbers and not even haus. All came in the haus boxes but were not all 4 the same knifes

Great knife. I’ve used this a work for four months now with no problems. I usually wear out a cheap knife in a month or so due to using a lot at work. Not this one, it’s a heavy duty build and nothing has gotten loose. Blade and clip are tight as can be. Blade opening is a little stiff, but that’s good, it’s solid. Put a little lube in the hinge and your good.

Too big for EDC

Beautiful knife but it's INCREDIBLE STIFF and ALL the screws have Loctite on them. I've already stripped the heads off of two TORX bits trying to loosen them! NOT good! I really hate it when knife companies Loctite screws on a knife. I probably take apart 99% of the knives I purchase, just to see what kind of bushings or bearings they used and lubricate them with 'Liquid Bearing' or 'Tuff Glide' and center the blade properly. This knife with the blade perfectly centered, which is pretty rare and no doubt explains (at least partly) why it's so difficult to deploy the blade. They must have cranked on the pivot screw REALLY hard to center the blade, making it extremely tight. Either that or they used 'Liquid Concrete' instead of Loctite.I haven't decided if I'm going to send this knife back or not. It takes BOTH hands to deploy the blade, which is totally unacceptable, in my book. Sorry, but I cannot recommend this knife to ANYONE.UPDATE: 08/30/2017 - Not being one to give up on anything, I figured out a way to at least get the blade removed from the handle of the knife, just so I could lubricate it properly and loosen up the pivot pin a bit. Don't even try and unscrew the TORX screws that hold the wooden scales on. You'll strip out the heads and they won't budge a micro-inch. VERY soft metal. To get the blade out so you can do whatever YOU want to do with it (lubricate the cheap nylon bushings, or whatever) you'll need a few things.First though, the pivot pin is a two-piece arrangement. The screw side (opposite side the belt clip is on) is JUST a screw. The actual pivot pin inserts threw the hole in the blade and has a TORX head screw in it, but the only way to remove the TORX screw is to remove the two TORX screws that hold the pocket clip on, which you'll strip the heads out of immediate if you TRY and remove them.I have very high quality set of TORX screwdrivers made by Wiha. They are SUPER tough and I've removed TORX head screws with them from other knives that I thought would be impossible to remove. Not with these babies though! In the case of THIS particular knife though, they chewed right through the cheap metal TORX screw heads. So, you're on your own on that score.NOTE: I've read on a few forums that if you heat up the TORX screw heads with a HOT soldering iron tip, that it will loosen (or melt) the Loctite they used to keep their cheap screws from falling out. I have a soldering iron but I DON'T have a tip small enough to reach into the TORX heads that hold the wooden scales on. They're just too deeply recessed into the wood and I DON'T want to screw up the wood scales (they're just too pretty).Stuff you'll need;1. a screwdriver or flat-blade bit (WELL fitting!) for a screwdriver handle/grip that accepts bits. Make sure there's as little 'slop' as possible when you insert the bit into the pivot pin screw. It needs to be a TIGHT fit.2. at least a 2" long small diameter 'thingy' that you can reach into the hole the pivot pin screw comes out of, when you remove the screw, so you can push the pivot pin out of the blade. I used one of my Wiha TORX screwdrivers; the T6, I think.3. another knife. I'll explain what that's for when I get to that part4. a fairly thick, heavy rag to protect your hand from the VERY sharp blade5. a soft rag to lay the knife on so you DON'T screw up the beautiful wooden scales.How to remove the blade;1. first, open the knife fully so the blade locks up.2. lay your soft rag on whatever the work surface is you're working on and lay the knife down on the rag, pivot pin screw side up, blade pointing to your left.3. lay the fairly thick, heavy rag across the blade. This will protect your hand when you push down on the blade with your left hand.4. with your right hand, put the screwdriver tip into the screw slot and and as you start to rotate it counterclockwise, start pressing down on the blade while NOT allowing the knife handle to tilt upward.NOTE: THIS is the tricky part. My hands are big enough and strong enough that I could press down on the blade while holding the knife handle down with my thumb the same hand (my left hand). Your mileage may vary. It your hand isn't big enough, as they say in IKEA furniture assembly instruction, "become two people" or get someone to help you.5. when you start unscrewing the pivot pin screw, it may or may not actually start to unscrew. If it just spins, put more pressure on the blade. The point of this is to cause friction between the hole in the blade and the pivot pin so that you CAN unscrew the pivot pin screw. Otherwise, the whole pivot pin just spins. FRICTION is your friend, in this case, and the pivot pin will bind inside the hole in the knife blade, with enough pressure.6. as soon as the screw starts to actually unscrew from the pivot pin, you'll know immediately because it will spin VERY easily. When that happens, ease off the pressure on the blade and relax a bit.NOTE: At this point, and rather than taking the screw ALL the way out, you've already loosed the screw's grip on the pivot pin, so pick up your knife, wiggle the blade back and forth a bit to loosen it up, close the blade and try and flick it open. If it's still tough to open, try loosening the screw a tiny bit more, making sure the blade does NOT start to wobble. IF you can get it to the point where you can actually live with it and you might consider actually carrying this knife, get a Sharpie or whatever and put a small dot on the metal part of the handle that aligns with another Sharpie mark you'll put on the screw. Then start unscrewing the screw and counting how many turns and/or fractions of a turn it takes before it will come right out.Next get some BLUE Loctite and use that instead of the liquid concrete they used on this knife to secure ALL the screws with. Put some of the blue stuff on the screw threads and screw it back in, counting the turns recorded when you took it out. Test blade deployment again and make whatever tweaks you might want to make to the screw to get the blade as easy to deploy as you can. Otherwise, just live with it and let it set for an hour so the Loctite can set up. If that's ALL you wanted to do, then you're done. If you actually DO want to remove the blade, keep reading.6. remove the screw from the pilot pin hole and put it in a safe place. I have an old M79 40 x 46 mm (spent) grenade casing I use to put loose TORX screws and such in, but you should use whatever you have laying around.7. as soon as you get the screw out and store it somewhere, push the lockbar over (as if you're going to close the blade), but DON'T close the blade. All you're doing is taking pressure off the blade.8. now get the 2" 'thingy' (Wiha TORX T6 worked for me) and push the pivot pin through the hole in the blade and as far through the scale as it will go. On my knife, the top of the pivot pin was flush against the underside of the pocket clip.9. at this point, the blade should slide right out of the knife handle, with very little effort. I think I only had to wobble it a tiny bit, but mostly it slid right out. At least on my knife it did.10. After doing whatever it is you want to do to the blade and/or the cheap nylon bushings, place the smaller of the two on the lip of the pivot pin, which only very slightly protrudes through the metal frame under the wooden scales, and then put the blade back in, making sure that you don't dislodge the small, cheap nylon washer. The washer stayed in place when I did this because it 'stuck' on the pivot pin. Your mileage may or may not vary.11. you're probably still wondering what the OTHER knife is for, so here's the reason for it. Open the other knife and using the blade, wedge it between the underside of the pocket clip and the pivot pin, pressing DOWN on the blade so you can push the pivot pin back through the hole in the blade. To get it to fully seat, I had to crank on the knife to angle the blade sufficient, between the top of the pivot pin and the underside of the pocket clip, to push the pivot in as far as it needs to go and it was then seated flush with the top of the scale.12. now slide the WELL lubricated large, cheap nylon washer between the blade and the metal under the wooden scale, on the pivot pin screw side. I could only push the big washer in so far, but the hole in it appeared inside the pivot pin hole and I was able to use (once again) my Wiha TORX T6 screwdriver to pull/push it into position and align the hole in it with the pivot pin hole.13. once all that's done, put the pivot pin screw back in and start cranking on it until it's JUST snug but NOT tight.At this point, your knife is now all back together and all you have to do is flick it open a few times to see how easy (or difficult) it is to open. I didn't have to tighten the screw on my knife much at all and it's now about million time easier to deploy the blade than it was when I got the knife (yesterday). I only have to give it a very tiny flick with my hand and it opens right up. Over time, it'll get even easier, as the cheap nylon bushings wear in.When you've got the pivot pin screw as tight as it needs to be to give you reasonably good blade deployment, you're done. It's now up to YOU as to whether or not you want to put Blue Loctite on the screw or not. The Blue stuff is a LOT easier to break loose than the red stuff. Personally, I'm not going to put any Loctite on the screw at all, which means that as the washers wear in, I'll probably have to tighten it a bit more. That's okay though as it's a quick and easy thing to do.It really is a beautiful knife and it's a shame (make that a crime) that the people who assembled this knife used Loctite on all the screws. Also, if the designer had specified a 'flat' on the pivot pin and they had machined those flats into the metal frame under the wooden scales, it would have been a LOT easier to unscrew the pivot pit screw. But, more machining costs more money and for less than $13, you get an okay knife that's really beautiful and once you loosen up the blade, it's MUCH easier to deploy.While I'm definitely NOT happy about ALL the screws having Loctite on them, I can live with it, for now. I may give this knife to someone or just put it in one of my knife cases will all the other knives I don't carry. I really don't think I'll ever carry this one, but it is nice to look at. Based on that alone, I changed my rating from 2 stars to 3 stars. That's as high as I can go and that's just the way it is with some knives.

I am really disappointed..I do not know which knife the people with 5 stars got but it wasnt what i got...It looks good thats it,thats is its only positive point.If there was a zero star i would give that.As another reviewer wrote you are NOT going to open this knife with this flipper stud.VERY VERY tight.Two hand opening only.Blade was dull,there is a gap between the wood and the bolster on both sides.I could go on and on but i am not going to waste my time.It is a sub 20 dollar knife and i got 2 dollars worth of knife..let me be clear DO NOT BUY THIS wood handled turd..Just to big a pain to return..

You will not find a better EDC knife at this price! Good blade, feels good in the hand, nice fit and finish.

Wow!!! beautiful knife for the price. alot bigger than what the picture shows. Shipped quickly and packaged nicely.