FLIPSKY75100 FOC 75V 100A Single ESC with Aluminum PCB Based on VESC for Electric Skateboard/Scooter/Ebike Speed Controller

Update: As of Jan 2023 there is a firmware update so this will run on the VESC v6 firmware. You'll need to download an manually update the firmware the first time. See the esk8 forum for instructions. This firmware fixes some issues in the stock firmware that ships with the device.I upgraded the motor and ESC on a Razor e100. This fit the bill and has plenty of overhead. Using with a Flipsky 6354 motor. So far no issues but this is bare bones so you may want to spend more money on an on/off switch. The VESC software has profiles and when I put it in Dad mode it pulls almost 100 amps. Kid mode allows you to cap top speed and max power which is nice. Definitely not an entry level esc but it works once configured.

got a solid three months out of this controller driving a 52V system at 2000W nominal/3000W peak before it unexpectedly cut out in the middle of a ride. It still "works", but the blue LED isn't turning on and when I connect to it wireless, it's reporting the battery voltage 20V above what the inline power meters are reading.I haven't had a chance to figure out exactly what the problem is, but I suspect a component in the controller crapped out.edit: blew a FET or two. Only did a visual inspection -- pretty sure both FETs on that phase are cooked, this is just the one closest to the edge. The other is behind one of those giant caps. MagnaChip Semiconductor MDP10N027 is the part number.

I bought this controlle last christmas and have never got it working!Theres a newer model available. If you buy one of thers make sure your getting thr latest version. You might want to look for "Trampa" motor controllers....Those guys are top of the pile so to say. Not available from Amazon but if you want a real pro controller that is the name to look for.

This one seems to work better than my older fkiosky 415. I constantly had problems hitting overvoltage when I fully charged my packs. This one streched the max volts and even has a higher contious amp rating but be carefull it has a much lower peak amp rating. Still within range of most battery packs but a custom one can easily be made to go higher so be sure to set max amps on your pack BMS if you went custom. The Aluminum casing give much needed protection and heat dissipation, they should have put a case on these from the beginning, especially considering the price tag right from the start. This aluminum case however only provides minimal water resistance since the port where the cables come out has no protection. Be sure to mount it so that the cables come down and the hole is facing downward so at the very least its not a water receptical.

These kept burning out on my 20" ebike. It has a 48v battery & the wattage was limited to 1500w each te. Not recommended for bigger bikes if you're looking for hard acceleration & high speeds. Good if you just need something working though.

feature packed esc in a cost reduced package for those that don't need super compact size, water proof, or ease of connection with factory terminals. All the features non of the fancy frills. amazon was also the best price, even better than ordering direct from manufacturer

You have to use 3rd party VESC software program to program the controller. Flipsky has some youtube links and a couple documents on basic programming of the 3rd party software but it's really not enough imo. This is a VESC controller, so it uses a 3.3V throttle, so if you have a 5V throttle or it wont work properly (and you are not supposed to use the 5v connections or it blows the controller people said) "Supposedly" you can calibrate a 5V throttle in the software, but I couldn't get it to work and the throttle was full throttle without hardly any input, and the motor never would spin up to max RPMS like my other controllers. The whole ordeal was a nightmare waste of time. I must have spend 10 hours wiring it all up, watching Youtube's, reading posts, and forums, programming the controller, trying to get it to work right. I decided that spending over $140 on this controller setup (controller, anti-spark switch, bluetooth module, connectors, etc) and not getting it to work after spending so much time was ridiculous. I sent it all back. Also it doesn't have a on/off switch or connector for one so you have to buy an antispark switch, or use a main power switch off your battery pack.

The controller worked fine, until it gave out when accelerating beyond 15mph. Oh well, so far, diagnosis has shown no voltage beyond the battery. I'll be probing the board and will update based on ease of repair.