IR260 POU Infrared Electric Tankless Water Heater - 240v / 10A- 30A / 6kW

Our kitchen sink does not get hot water through the normal hot water piping from the whole house water heater, though there is no problem anywhere else in the house. The kitchen sink is in an island so there is no easy way to change the water lines. I installed a 4 gallon under counter water heater about 10 years ago and it was marginally ok, but over time it got limed up due to the calcium in the water and did not provide enough hot water. I researched on demand heaters at length and determined that this unit would likely solve my problem. I had an available 220V circuit with 10 gauge wire which is adequate to serve this unit. I found the installation instructions to be very clear and installed the unit myself about a month ago. I couldn't be more pleased. It provides hot water when we need it and for as long as we need it. I recommend it to anyone who has adequate electrical power and who needs to serve a single kitchen sink/dishwasher.

i installed this 10 months ago, instructions were easy and it worked well. this week, the water heater is stuck on 26/27. i tried all the different modes from 1-4, reset my circuit breakers, no changes. it won't heat water anymore.UPDATE 1-20-18Their warranty requires you to have a licensed installer. But that isn't my complaint. Its their useless service that renders the most possible difficulty and monetary gain on the company that disturbs me. I actually dropped off my heater to get fixed when this company was named SuperGreen, seems they changed names. Their supposed heating element that lasts 20 years was broken in 10 months. When I tried to pick it up, they made it as difficult for me to pick up as possible after 5pm at the worst traffic. They are never in the office, but if you show up they will try to make a show that they are working hard. If you call them its some VOIP callback system with really bad sound quality, the baby crying in the background gives it away pretty quickly. This product seems like some kind of repackaged Alibaba heater, as the Celsius reading is obviously not made for the USA market.Rather than jump through their hoops to pick up my repaired heater, I just left it there because I figured it will save me more problems down the road and I really don't want to deal with their bad service anymore. I bought another company's water heater, installed it myself. Didn't require any contractor to install it and the warranty is good. The new water heater readings are in F, not C. The Supergreen/SioGreen dial adjusting inlet where you have to manually turn wasn't required, my new water heater just worked. Less headache, more hot water. That's all I wanted, and I got it with another manufacturer.

We already have a whole house tankless system that works great. Except. The kitchen is so far from the unit that waiting for hot water was wasteful. Which is why I plumbed and re-wired the house to install a POU in the kitchen.While it is great at heating water I think maybe I should have researched a bit more.I didn't realize that "point of use" does not always mean useable pressure at that point.I think I should have purchased the IR-14K220 POU as a minimum for single point of use. The IR260 is barely enough to be a hand washer.The part about using 1, 2, 3, or 4 heat elements in the IR260 is dreaming. Any less than 4 and you may as well not turn it on.I would not recommend this unit for a kitchen sink (which is what I bought it for).However, all things considered, It was an easy install, I like the IR concept for longevity, And if you need very little pressure with your hot water this would be the unit to buy.I will find a use for it somewhere, but first I have to save up enough money to buy the IR-14K220 that I should have bought in the first place.

If you are replacing an existing water heater, pay attention:This model comes equipped with 1/2" NPST (straight thread) connections, which are typical for shut off valves you would find under a sink, and are designed to be used with flexible hookup hoses which have a rubber gasket for sealing. Traditional tank style water heaters use 3/4" NPT (tapered thread) connectors. The problem is bridging these incompatible thread types without a leak.If you call SioGreen support, they will tell you to use brass 1/2" female NTP to 3/4" male NTP adaptors. This will work on the inlet side, because the plastic nipple sticking out of the water heater is soft, and will conform to the tapered thread of the adaptor. On the outlet side you must connect the supplied stainless steel flow control valve to the water heater outlet. When you then try to thread on the brass adaptor (tapered threads) to the stainless steel flow control valve (straight threads), it will start binding at about 1/3 of a turn. After futzing with this for a couple of hours, I was finally able to get a good seal by using lots of teflon tape and severely over-tightening the adaptor.There should be an easier solution than this.Follow up - I've got it installed and working without leaks. It seems sufficient for a bathroom sink or shower, if you take miserly showers. Don't expect to fill a bathtub with this thing. While 240v / 30A wiring is typical for a tank heater, it is simply not enough power for a tankless if you want to fill a bathtub.