Durabak 18 (For Outdoors), SMOOTH version - Non Slip Coating, Bedliner, Deck Paint for ALL Boats - Many colors to choose from! - YELLOW - QUART

I had an "aha moment" one day after 6 years of not being able to use my circa 1947 salmon pink shower stall.I had a problem where the water in the floor of it would soak into the concrete under the tile, then slowly make its way outward, eventually making mildew stains on the tile outside the stall, and wetting/rotting the wood framing beyond the shower enclosure.I really missed the practicality of the stall, and the vintage charm of it, so I put off demolishing the entire room (all matching tile, cannot find it anymore) to resolve the issue- so I just didn't use it.I love bedliner for the durability, chemical resistance, and sealing characteristics it has- but I didn't want a colored liner to cover the original tile and stick out like a sore thumb.I had no idea anyone made it in clear, but I googled it and this is where I was directed.I also didn't want a cheap product- it had to be permanent and good the first time since once it's done, there's no going back if the attempt fails.I settled on Durabak- it arrived fairly quickly and I thoroughly bleached, rinsed, and washed again with glass cleaner, then allowed it to air out a couple days, guaranteeing dryness.I masked around the tops of the floor-to-wall transition tiles, then used a medium knap micro roller to apply the Durabak.It was a very thick product, super sticky and about the consistency of refrigerated syrup. It rolled on evenly. I put it on thick and liberally, it lays on lumpy with a roller, which I was a bit concerned about. Within 20 minutes before the second coat, it had leveled itself out completely and was glass smooth.I added the second coat, which used the remainder of the quart can (shower stall is 3x4 feet)The second coat leveled itself too. I was concerned a surface glass smooth would be slick for the bare feet, expecially soapy bare feet. After I let it cure throughly for about 3 days, I was shocked that even though there's no grit or abrasive material in the clear Durabak, your bare feet grip excellently on it, even covered in soap.I've been using the stall twice daily for a few weeks now, - zero signs of moisture escaping through into the slab or framing (left the wall opened up to make sure)It looks and performs like a million bucks. I didn't have to spend thousands and break my back gutting and replacing a period correct bathroom- which I love and didn't want to see destroyed. It fits this house, and wouldn't be replaceable once it was gone.Great product, Durabak! You saved my vintage bath!

I have been using this product for many years, as soon as I have bought a new 3500 diesel truck I get to sanding and painting.This is a Jeep Scrambler that is on it's second round of trying to get the Olive Drab to stick. First time the paint was a few weeks short of 13 months old. After following the directions I tried to apply, kept getting air bubbles showing up after application (not fish eye's) wether or not I spray, rolled or brush. After talking to Durabak all I got was "I'm trying to help" not another reply.So a sanding I go with 40 grit to the entire tub, new gallon of O/D green, new gallon of xylene. Blew off the dust, dry rag the body... Tac cloth w/ xylene... New rag w/ xylene... Temperature in the mid 60s with similar humidity. 4 coat's...heat up to mid 70s for a week to ensure cure.This is what I got from test fitting the dashboard.Picture with the can is the first try with bubble's...zoom in.Just put in some trim screw's and the paint is peeling off the surface under and around the head's!I have done industrial painting of ship's and boats for over 20 year's, including ice breakers...not one time have I ever had issues like this.

I used it to refinish inside the tub of a Jeep YJ. The white paint matches my white Jeep perfect. As with any finish, prep is the key. Used wire wheel on a angle grinder to remove rust, Scuf sanded well with a sanding pad and paper, thoroughly washed, and then wiped down using xylene paint thinner as recommended. Temperature was in the 60 degrees range with moderate humidity when applied. Poured out about a pint at a time. This epoxy sets up using moisture from the air, so keep can covered. One gallon was perfect to apply two coats. Don't worry about appearance of the first coat, it straightens out with second coat . Sets up fairly fast, so you have to keep moving. I used some white rubber granules sprinkled into the wet paint For texture. You can buy the same paint with granules already in it but they are black and I didn't want my paint to look gray as it wore in. Took away one star for price.

This stuff has a shelf life, even before you open it. If it has a yellowish-orange tint when you pop the lid, try to get your money back. (The tinted stuff may have separation that is rust colored before you stir it and may be just fine, but the clear should still be clear in the can) You can try to thin with xylene, but it will not work. It's already too far gone.I have no doubt this is on the decks of some navy vessels. It is that good. Textured or smooth, it is virtually bullet proof when you apply it correctly. I will buy it again and again, but not all cans are equal. I bought a quart of this clear/smooth durabak and it was epoxy clear and not too different from latex paint in consistency. Fairly easy to apply and very happy with the results. My last order was a gallon and it was as described above, as well as very thick. Tried to save it, but it would leave bubbles in the surface no matter how much I thinned it.I absolutely recommend this product for coating anything you want protected and/or textured. I love it's durability. Just make sure you have a recent batch before you start.That being said, this particular can I received is still usable as an undercoating or on tools, but I will not be putting it on anything that needs to look nice. I'll buy a new can for that

So I've bought two cans of Durabak the bumpy and the smooth. the smooth was just as bumpy as the bumpy, there was no difference in the texture what so ever. I used it, but it really wasn't what I wanted. I had to make due. Second thing the first can i bought opened like any other paint can. This can that I bought was pure hell opening, I actually had to put in a vise and use a large screw driver and a mallet to get it open. Absolutely the most difficult can of anything I've ever opened in my life. I almost threw my back out, and I am not kidding!