Wood Repair Kit

Our 100+ year old house had some issues, and now that we're working on our first baby's room, it was time to address some of them. Namely, the door that was held to the frame with NAILS and 2 out of 3 screw holes were stripped completely, and a windowsill with severe water damage. We took the hinges off the frame, doused all exposed wood with the hardener, and about 48 hours later stuffing as much epoxy as we possibly could into the destroyed frame. Let me just pause to say how impressive the wood hardener is; the wood we were working with went from giving way with a push of our fingers, to completely solid in 24 hours. One tip for mixing and placing epoxy - use two putty scrapers so you can scrape from one to the other. Filling the door frame was pretty easy, but the windowsill was another story. Due to years of neglect, the wood had rotted away from certain parts of the sill, and we used the epoxy to recreate the missing wood. This was a bit difficult because the epoxy is sooooo sticky, creating a smooth finish was impossible. I gave up at some point with the idea that sanding would help hide my failure. I was kind of right - sanding did help a little, but not as much as I was hoping. Luckily, a coat of white paint helped tremendously and eventually the blinds and curtains will help most of all when they cover my project most of the time. We also used this product to repair the door frame to our basement stairs. When I moved in, the door was being held on with one screw. I've spent years in this home pulling the door completely out of the doorway and placing it up against our China cabinet. We figured we really couldn't make it worse, so we started with this one and I'm proud to say the screws are now firmly attached to both the door and the frame. TLDR: is this product a permanent fix for our uses? Maybe. For now our doors feel very sturdy and it's a big improvement that didn't cost us a fortune and/or our relationship. I recommend this product but also recommend some patience and to prepare yourself for a little more effort than just harden, mix, and fill.

The wood hardener is magic. I used it on several dry rotted areas and it restored the wood so it could be filled in without replacing it, saving me from having to replace an old window sill. The epoxy paste was too hard upon opening it and didn't mix well...the results are too sticky, and gloopy, and might have been old. I didn't hate it, but I will look for a better product. It does sand well but filling in holes or cracks doesn't work easily. It's like using the stickiest chewing gum. It ends up globbing on with peaks and bubbles and areas that you can't fill in at all because it sticks to the putty knife, or hands. Unfortunate. My feeling is PC Woody makes good products, and I can't picture a better hardener, but buy that one alone and try a different wood filler.

This is pretty sticky stuff but dries to a very hard substance that does not crack or chip. Excellent strength and is likely to be long lasting. However, it is not easy to work with and clean up is difficult. When cured, the color is quite bright, does not absorb stain and stands out. I had to buy a colored solid stain to try to make it blend in with the existing stain. Due to its high price, I also used Elmer's wood filler for some areas on my deck. PC Woody was definitely the superior product and would go with this if I had to do it again.

Saved me from having to replace a whole panel of fiberboard siding from water sprinkler damage. As an old man without a truck to haul siding and not enough strength to want to rip off and replace the whole board, this seemed like a good option. Used a styrene backer under the rotted edge and applied it per instructions. First the petrified, and then the next day the epoxy. There is a learning curve but for first time use I’m satisfied. To prevent droop, per the website, I used a support 1x2 wrapped in wax paper. Applied two layers, with two days I between. Sands well, and I then painted. No, it’s not a perfect job but you can’t tell the panel was damaged unless you know where to look. I was a little worried about the second layer as I didn’t do a perfect mixing ratio, as evident by color. But I gave it 3 days to cure and it’s hard and didn’t prevent sanding. Both products, the petrifier and the epoxy are very good. Next project is a window sill. There is no obnoxious smells and cleanup was easy with water for the petrifier brush and alcohol for the putty knife. The color is a light tan that is easy to hide with paint.

This stuff is great. I carved out a section on top of a deck board that was starting to rot. Used the recommended PC hardener a few days prior to application and then mixed the 2 parts of this to fill in the valley I carved the rot out of. Sanded it flat to blend in with the board and then used a paint stain to match what was already on the deck. I live in a colder climate with snow and ice and this wintered well with nothing cracking or separating from the repaired deck board and the paint stain also held up. It’s a little hard to mix by hand but I’ve always had good luck with this brand for various repairs being more permanent. Unlike ordinary wood putty or caulk, this has more rigidity and structural support because it’s epoxy based.

I have used this before and excellent condition and performance. this time, one component surface had a dried surface that cracked into flakes when I scooped some out. Despite vigorous mixing, I could not get all the chipped flakes to blend into the mixture. this left firm flakes and trails when smoothing with putty knife and made sanding more difficult. the blended mixture was also drier than previously. Also in the other component there was a very large central void in the container--I doubt I got the full amount.

For any kind of wood repair, PC Woody is a great product. It mixes easily, has a long working time, it is easy to shape while it cures, and is rock hard when fully cured for sanding, drilling and cutting. It can fill any sized hole in one application. You have to keep an eye on large fill areas to push any sagging back in place while it cures. That is a small price to pay over multiple applications that require a day to cure. I have tried other wood epoxies that took forever to cure or was sticky when cured. I have used it to repair wood rot and termite damage. When I was done it didn't look like it had ever been touched. Be sure and use the wood hardener for a good base. After curing for a while, before it is fully set, I used acetone to smooth the surface and make sharp corners to cut down on sanding. The stuff sticks to everything. That is why it has 3 stars for application. I haven't used any product that doesn't. Rubber gloves and acetone makes application easy.

my step son put a crack in the kitchen floor trying to pop a water bottle lid off. that was about 25 years ago. So i finally was redoing the floor, and tried alot of things to fix the crack. but u could still feel the wood pressing down when stepping on it. so found this stuff and decided to give it a try...OMG best thing i have every bought, used the wood hardener, and i was very impressed. stepped on the spot and it ddnt move. so filled in with the epoxy paste and walla it worked. No more crack in the floor and the new tile looks awesome. I must admit the epoxy was a little hard to sand, but got through with time and patient. I highly recommend this product. I will be buying again if needed.

There was allot more rot on the window I was fixing than I expected. So I needed to do a few passes with the hardener first. Then when I mixed the compound, I did as in the video, I mixed only a small amount of it at a time. Did a few small amounts on the first pass, then more the next day. It definitely sands well and looks like it belongs. Would recommend for any rotted wood.