Motor Guard M-60 1/2 NPT Sub-Micronic Compressed Air Filter

you don't receive a defective/cracked unit. It is my fear Clinton R. Webb (see 1-star review on May 23, 2013) might have received this defective unit after I returned it (????).Anyway, here's a repost and recap of my comment I left under Clinton's 1-star review. Hopefully this helps others.Back in Jan 2013, I installed this M-60 filter and it leaked. I used 1/2" copper pipe for my air connections/plumbing, so at first I thought I had a bad solder connection leaking near the exit port of the filter. So I took it all apart, resoldered that joint and still it leaked some air by this output/exit port. So again, I took it apart and after very close inspection, I noticed a crack or defect in the casting in the area of the exit port. I never expected a brand new filter to leak like this. Needless to say, my soldering was fine and this wasted a lot of my time while leaving me scratching my head a bit. Amazon sent promptly me a replacement and this one does not leak nor is defective in any way. In fact, it works great (see update below). If yours leaks, it's defective and should be returned immediately. Now, I can only hope the defective unit I purchased in Jan 2013 wasn't repackaged and resold to Clinton. I wasted a lot of time donking around with a defective filter that I convinced myself was "fine." It wasn't and I let Amazon know this so someone else wouldn't get it. But who knows. Of course, I had to waste time testing and retesting my connections to ensure they were good-n-tight and not the cause. But only because I install it could I see the hairline crack in the casting, but I had to know where it was leaking from first. Otherwise, you'd never know without installing it, so I could see someone might say it doesn't look/appear defective and try to resell it. Shameful to say the least if this indeed happened.UPDATE 1: I've been using this filter now for over one year and have tested mine to over 150 psi. It does not leak. Otherwise, I keep it constantly at 100 psi with zero leaking. As for my setup, I have my compressor outside the garage in an out building (compressor station) and run the airline through the basement (roughly 80-feet) in 1/2" copper. Where the line goes vertical out of the basement(lowest point in run) and up and over to the garage, I have a shut-off gas ball valve with drain petcock so I can service/drain the lines periodically. Coming into the garage, I have another shut-off ball valve and then a water separator device just in front of the Motor Guard M-60 filter. This separator seems to trap most of the water (quite a bit I have to drain daily) before it enters the M-60 paper filter. Also note, I like to run vertically the copper airline after the M-60 filter for at least 3 feet to let gravity have a last go at any further moisture that somehow might run my hydrophobic gauntlet. Conclusively, after a year's frequent use, the M-60 paper filter looks like new. I thought for sure I'd have to change it but was pleasantly surprised it was dry and clean.UPDATE 2: The water separator I'm using is effective but understand it's limited. The unit is a simple Kobalt water separator (note: many sold on Amazon are probably as good or perhaps better):Lowes Item #: 221014Model #: SGY-AIR93/8" NPT female ports42-SCFM flow at 90 PSI inlet, 5 PSI pressure dropI think most inexperienced folks expect this water separator [alone] to remove 100% of any and all water including vapor. They're dead wrong. Typically, these are under $25 and alone are marginally effective. Now, compare a $20+ water separation device to professional line dryers which are expensive...for a reason: they're very effective. They're very effective for medical reasons to protecting VERY expensive tools and equipment.Now, this doesn't mean you have to spend a ton to get very good results which is why I recommend a water separator (and any better quality one should work) to remove bulk moisture followed by this Motorguard M60. I use this everyday with great results: painting, sandblasting...even general air drying with a Cornwell 4" Blow Gun Kit, $49.95 SKU: CATBGK that I LOVE and highly recommend (I own two: 1 for shop, 1 on the tool truck).For professionals and heavy duty use, I recommend a compressed air dryer ($600-$1,500+). For small, in-the-field jobs (i.e., not in the shop) like say an oil-based touchup paint job, I'll throw on an inline desiccant air filter fed from a portable compressor. These desiccant filters are great to absorb water vapor and prevent fish eyes in your paint. However, they don't last long and naturally they absorb water from air, so once you open them, either discard after a short while or dry them for re-use. Most are labeled disposable, but carefully you can dry them at low temps in an oven and then reseal them.Conclusively, temper your expectations with regard to 100% lab-dry lines. Without expensive gear, forget it. But with a water separator and an M60, you get what most of us really need: a reliable, dry line that protects your air tools while yielding superior results. For further reading, search compressed air dryers and dew point to understand compressed air and moisture. Unfortunately, it's far more than plugging in some $20 "water separator." Hope this helps.

Runs well and keeps the air line dry!

works great relly good for air

Easy to install and works great

Thie is a very cost effective solution to getting the last bit of water particles out of your air supply and filtering smaller micron sized particles from the air supply before reaching the tool after passing through a regular particulate filter and air dryer. If you really want the most driest cleanest air to paint or anytging that requires clean air this at the end of your dryer and filter system is a good idea to make sure any last bit of moisture is removed and tiniest particles are filtered out from getting into your tool and on to your project.It's made from aluminum though so if the filter gets enough moisture in it the inside of the aluminum body of the filter will start corroding. To prevent this from happening I remove the filter roll out of it after each use when I am done using it and put have it hanging some way in a warm dry area so it dries and i keep the filter body seperated tonlet any moisture in it evaporate out. so far it has worked great that way just is not as convenient as just being able to leave it as it is after done working for the day so i just do it at the end of the day when im done using it when i clean up.

I have to give this 5-stars. It really is excellent and does an excellent job. I also have 2 m-30's, and can't get them to stop leaking. Even my replacement leaked. I say this because they're identical (even the filter element) other than where the hookups are and the size of them. They clearly have a manufacturing issue on the line that makes the m-30, likely with the porosity or the machining of the surfaces. I will reiterate though that this has not affected the M-60, which I'm specifically reviewing here. I just felt compelled to mention it because they're virtually the same.

Great product! The housing is heavy duty and nothing leaks at all. I have this filter downstream of 2 dryers, I only rely on this filter to remove oil mist and sub micron debris. It does it's job, I have no streaks or marks on my Hypertherm plasma consumables and they literally last forever. I also don't anticipate needing to change the filter much at all since it stays dry. If you use this filter to remove moisture and debris/oil mist, you may end up changing the filter quite often do to water being trapped in the filter housing with no way to drain it or dry the filter element.

Does the job great. Stops all moister from getting to my plasma!