Dry Erase White Brush-On Paint Kit | Creates Writable & Erasable Surfaces, Walls, Offices & Classrooms, Easy Dry Erase Marker Cleanup, Paint Kit

I had used this in the past and thought I would try it again in my classroom. I hated the chalkboard and wanted a whiteboard in my classroom and didn't want to jump through hoops for the district to drag their feet on getting one. Upon opening the paint, there was a little bit of a fishy + paint smell, but it was easy to ignore with the windows open. When the first coat dried, I tested it with dry erase markers. It didn't really erase and left ghosting. I decided that this could be an operator error since I was using it on a weird surface. I painted the second coat and returned the following day. When I tested it, I was expecting the same results, but no! It washes off so easily and doesn't leave ghost writing. The white is vibrant like a normal whiteboard and definitely brightened with the second coat. This is a cheapee alternative to buying expensive whiteboards, and it works great!

As the Author of the Kingdom of the Infinity Realm series, I have to do a lot of planning and brain storming for my fiction book series. This white board paint is a life saver. I was able to apply it myself. The final product is great. It’s not as clean of a finish as a separate white board, but it works very well. My wall is grey so I thought I needed 2 coats but I was wrong. I needed 3 coats. This mixture BARELY covered the area I needed with three coats. If you have an application any bigger than that what I have, you’ll need more than one set of this stuff. A tip for you guys: don’t apply it too thick. Do 3 thin coats. If you apply too thick (like I did), it doesn’t dry in 30 minutes like it should, so when you apply the next layer, you end up peeling off the prior one, leaving splotchy areas behind. It’s a mess. So learn from my mistake and apply 3 light coats instead of trying to go for 2 thick ones, and definitely wait the full 30 minutes between coats. This is imperative.

I did check to make sure this was a current batch ( other reviewers explained how but you could call the manufacturer to confirm). I ended up putting on 4 thin coats on a 54 sq ft wall. I bought two packs. I got two good coats from each. I used a high density foam roller, like the kind you use to paint cabinet doors. I did try one coat with a standard foam roller, but it put too much product on and I had some runs to deal with. Stick with the cabinet rollers. I did two coats with the first batch in day one. Waited a day and lightly sanded and cleaned before coats 3 and 4. Note it will be tacky after the first coat when you apply the second. And it will take 6-8 hours to be touchable without being tacky. While it's tacky, it will attract dust so be careful if moving drop cloths, vacuuming, etc. some how I got some light dust specks on part of the wall which may have been from moving a drop cloth around. So how does it work? Black dry erase works perfect. Some colors may be harder to remove. Stick with standard dry erase markers. No low order or highlighters. They seem to be harder to remove. I was able to get them off completely though with dry erase cleaner. Use isopropyl alcohol or dry erase cleaner (they are the same) to remove any shadowing. Do not use windex. I suspect in time it will damage the surface. I also noticed after a few extra days it was easier to remove the marker. Again, black works great. Colors, you mileage may vary. Strong odor passes after about an hour. I didn't think it was bad but my complained a little. I'm happy with it so far. Great price. Just don't expect it to be the greatest whiteboard ever. All whiteboards work less well over time. Keep in mind you are painting over drywall. a wall with some texture. It makes using erasers harder to use. I just use a paper towel to get rid of most of the marker and spray what is left.

I work in intervention and painted a table top last year with some really expensive dry erase paint. It ghosted for no reason and just didn’t wipe very clean. I used cleaner every day on it. It started rubbing off after a year so I bought this rust oleum. It went on nicely. I followed the directions to the T. Unfortunately, as much as I had scrubbed my table prior to the application,(and I had SCRUBBED) there was still dry erase residue on the table which mixed with the paint and made a grey area in the center of my table. I thought I could live with it. Turns out, I couldn’t. So 3 weeks later, I bought more rust oleum and painted it again since it’s still a fraction of the price of the stuff I had used before. this time it was super crisp white! It erases so easily! It still looks completely brand new after a month of school with me and the kids writing on it daily. I haven’t had to use any expo cleaner on it at all. Now, I only use BLACK expo markers on it as I have read that the colored ones will ghost. I have not had any ghosting or discoloration at all. We tend to erase within 5 minutes of writing tho too. I just can’t believe how nicely it erases tho compared to even regular dry erase boards. I’ll definitely be using this brand from now on.

I bought this with some trepidation. I had read some reviews that said it didn't work. I read others that gave some great advice. I followed that advice and it came out amazingly great. First, read all you can from people who have commented positively. Especially the part about making certain the product is not expired. Second, over-prepare your walls. I put two coats of primer on the wall. Third, I sanded the primer, lightly, after it was dry. Then I wiped off the dust completely. Fourth, and this is the part I really paid attention to. I measured out how much wall each can would cover with two coats. I then looked at my watch and what time I began painting. I made sure the first coat was complete in 20 minutes and then after 30 minutes I began the second coat. I did the same with a third coat. Be sure to mix each can of paint well. Pour can B into can A and re-close can A to shake and mix. The paint is not thick - its water thin. Be careful not to get too aggressive with filling your roller with paint (yes use a roller) because it will run if you do. Go slow and methodical until you have completed all three coats (my recommendation - not the manufacturer). Do the entire painting in one session. You don't have to wait until it is completely dry to do the 2nd and 3rd coats - just wait 30 minutes and complete the use of each can in the period of one hour. I had great results and the dry erase ink comes right off (with a very slight ghosting that I have also had with boards that I bought) but the spray cleaner that comes with the dry erase markers takes care of that if you even need it. I did a 12 x 8 wall with perfection following other people's suggestions and my own process. Good luck.

Bottom line, it's hard to erase, as everyone has said. The biggest variable seems to be the kind of marker used. Some markers erase with a solid bit of effort, others flat out require a cloth and whiteboard cleaner to remove. So far the best candidate for writing on this paint is the Boone brand "Comfortech" marker line. I do a lot of paint work on cars, so I know how important prep work is. I made sure each instruction was handled to the letter, All the components were smoothly and properly mixed. My surface (bare steel) was perfectly smooth, sanded gently with 2000 grit paper, and then wiped down with acetone and allowed to dry. Every bit of prep was well beyond what you would expect of a normal wall. Things to give you a better surface: - If you have a metal or other non-white surface, hit it with a smooth white primer first. The cans say you can paint directly onto metal, but it took 4 coats to get a solid white finish. If you don't prime first, you will run out of paint way before you should. (You can also sand down the primer to a smooth surface before starting with the dry erase paint) - Only mix half of the hardener and half of the paint at one time. You're not supposed to use it after 1 hour of mixing, and you will need more time than that to apply all your coats. Mix just half, do your two coats, then mix up the other half. - Clean out your tray after every application. As this stuff gets tacky, it breaks up into chunks, so if you go to do your second coat (or 3rd or 4th) in the same tray you were just using, you'll end up with little flakes in your finish. Try to remove every speck of the old paint from the tray before beginning. - Before each coat, clean and wet down your roller a little bit with water, and wring it out as best you can, it seems to help the paint go on more smoothly. - Use whatever roller style gives you the least texture. I wasn't happy with what my foam rollers were doing, so I switched to the a more traditional small roller (kitchen and bath roller) that seemed to give me a smoother surface. At this point, I'm stuck with what I've got, but it was a lot of work for a very frustrating result. Can't say that I can recommend it.

I used this on a sheet of steel to make a magnetic white board. This went on difficultly. It left ridges and will not work for dry erase. I sanded it down and put on a last coat. The dry erase pens will not wipe off. Luckily I am using it for more than just a whiteboard. I am not sure how or if I can fix my board but know I will not buy this again. FYI, it is 2 parts, after you mix them, the paint has to be used in 1 hour. It takes 1 hour to dry and you need to do more than one coat..... For me, I measured out what I thought I would need for each coat into a separate container then used it. I was accurate in my measurements. But it is a pain and messy.

Seems to be very mixed reviews on this product. So I thought I would post the process I used given my positive result. These are doors in my garage cabinets and I wanted to use them for build drawings. I first cleaned the doors with krud Kutter. A quick wipe down is all I needed just to take any contamination off. I then applied a single coat of white acrylic primer. I felt the existing finish was too glossy so wanted to ensure good adhesion. That primer dried overnight so it would be completely cured. Yes the cans are half full. That is because they made it convenient to mix since you pour the activator into the base. That way you do not need another container! I love it when these things are thought out. So open each can and stir each can separately. Then pour the small can into the big can. And stir for two minutes. Remembering I only have one hour to get it done. This stuff is thick, but it rolled on just fine. I was generous with the coating and did not experience any problems. I waited 15 minutes and then applied a second coat. It won't do any good if you apply the second coat after the first one dries. Some other review mentioned they did that. After second coat I let it cure for three days. In my video I am using expo fine dry erase markers. You can see it wipes right off. I am using a simple lint free rag. Now I know I am wiping it off right after writing on it and that often it's different when the writing is left on for a while. If I experience bad ghosting from that I will update the review. I generally like rustoleum products. I believe there is food R&D that goes into their products so I was expecting a good result. But again if anything changes I will update my review.

Simple process. follow the exact specs. use of roller brush will be appropriate. check for small threads and remove it before using. excellent product for home learning!

The biggest factor when using this is to Follow The Instructions Exactly!

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Used it to cover a very large board and it worked well. Did 2 coats. Very cost effective although messy of course. But the alternative was to spend thousands on a huge white board. Can be used over existing whiteboards if you need to do that.

Solution doesn’t work - it makes it permanently marker