Simtyso Predmium Folk Acoustic Electric Guitar Banjo Trigger Capo Key Clamp

Exactly what I wanted -- a CLASSICAL GUITAR spring loaded capo. Be aware that this capo is for instruments with flat fingerboards. Normal steel string guitars have curved fingerboards and require a capo with the curvature built in. This capo did not work on any of my steel string acoustic guitars, including the 12 strings even though it is plenty wide enough. However it did work on my Epiphone Emperor Regent jazz box archtop guitar that does have a slightly radiused fretboard. It worked fine on all of my other instruments with flat fingerboards -- banjo, mandolin and ukuleles, but it is rather large for them visually.My classical guitar's neck is slightly wider than 2" at the nut. The capo fit comfortably there and all the way up to the 10th fret where the neck is over 2 & 3/8" wide.On the negative side, the capo is pretty clunky looking compared to an elegant Shubb classical guitar capo. However the Shubb has a tendency to come loose from the neck at higher frets, where the neck thickness defeats its lever clamping mechanism. This Chinese spring capo does not have that problem, and has the advantage of requiring only one hand to operate during a performance. That is the reason I wanted one. Of course the clamping tension cannot be adjusted on the Chinese capo like it can on the Shubb, but that is the tradeoff when choosing a spring capo.I was impressed with the shipping speed. It took only 13 days from the day I placed the order for it to arrive from China. My only real problem with this product is its name: "Premium Quick Change Folk Acoustic Electric Guitar Banjo" capo implies that it will work with almost all guitars, but it won't if they have curved fingerboards. Most do. However the product description is accurate where it says, "This capo also fit the wider neck and flat fingerboards of the classical guitars or other guitars with straight frets." "Straight frets" means flat fingerboards. The picture is accurate too -- it looks exactly like the capo I received.

If you are purchasing this for a steel string acoustic (not a classical guitar with nylon strings) or for an electric guitar, which appears to be what this item wants you to think it is intended for, I would advise you to look elsewhere. It works for a banjo, which is the only thing that kept me from giving 1 star. Though I have not used this capo on a classical guitar to test it, I can say with pretty much definitive certainty that this capo was meant for use on classical guitars. The item description hints that it "also" works with classical instruments/instruments with straight frets, but that appears to be all that it really is designed to work with. The title of this item is very misleading, in my opinion.Honestly, the capo just doesn't generate enough force on the low E string of my guitars with radiused fretboards to keep it from buzzing. I've tried it on several guitars, both electrics and acoustics, guitars that are well set up. Gibsons, Taylors, high end Fenders, not cheaper stuff. One was even set up for D standard, so the strings are a lot easier to press down. Still no dice.To those who are unfamiliar, classical (nylon) string guitars typically have no radius on the neck, meaning that they are flat. Most acoustic and electric guitars have a radius on the neck, meaning they are slightly curved, which makes them easier to play. Because of this, classical guitars often need their own specific capos that are better suited for flat necks (no radius) and are also wider (classical guitar necks are often wider than steel string acoustics/electrics.) On steel string guitars, the E strings are slightly recessed back towards your body, meaning that a capo will have to reach farther and with more force in order to contour to the curve.According to Amazon, I can't return the item, which I'd kind of rather not hassle with anyway, given its price. I just wouldn't recommend anyone purchase it. Perhaps it'll work well for a classical guitar, but I really can't say for certain as I do not own one. I'm either going to doctor it in order to make a partial capo, or I'm going to use it on my Banjo, which has light enough strings that the capo will work as intended with a little bit of finagling.tl;dr it might work for a classical guitar, but it won't generate enough force on the low e string of a steel string guitar and amazon's return policy says it's non-returnable. it will work ok for a banjo.

These are great! I bought 6 of them for guitar students. They have a good, strong spring, and they do exactly what they were designed to do. They compare favorably with my Kyser capo, though the spring on this one is perhaps a little stronger; I have not noticed any greater impact on the intonation with this than the Kyser, and in both cases, a small amount of care taken when placing the capo prevents major intonation problems.My personal technique for a spring loaded capo is to position the capo touching the all the strings, with the padded surface of the capo parallel to the fretboard, and release the spring so that the capo closes "from behind"; so that it's the part that hits the back part of the neck that is actually moving when you release the spring.There is one thing that in no way affects the effectiveness of the device, but which some people may care about. There are plastic inserts in the handle that are snapped together. If the capo is dropped on the floor, they break apart, and can't be snapped back together as securely as they initially were. This was no problem for me, I just took them out and threw them away.

A couple of years ago, I bought my husband a guitar to tinker around with. So this year I upgraded his guitar, bought him an amp and opted for this capo to go along with. He loved it. He says its more akin to what the professionals use as its more sturdy, yet easier to maneuver than the capo he purchased for his first guitar. Although he hasn't give it much use, yet, so I cannot attest to its longevity, everything else about this capo is spot on and I very happy I purchased it.